Hi guys so I got my first "Flames of war" box set today, woohoo! :coolsmiley:
One issue, I am not sure how to properly remove the soldiers as they are all attached to one large plastic "holder?". It seems if I try to pull them out I might bend/damage some of the guns/equipment. Not to mention the various tank parts which are very tiny. Should I use a knife, pliers, razorblade? Just trying to use the most efficient method without damaging either the figures, or myself :P. Thanks!
You're going to probably have the best luck with fine detail cutters such as these: http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-Precision-Sprue-Cutter-XUR410T/dp/B000BL8K6Y
There are lots of makers out there, look around and decide what you think is best for you.
Next, by "holder" I think you're referring to the casting sprue. Please refer to the diagram below:
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj349%2Flongblade%2FGrogHeads%2Fcasting%2520sprue%2520clip_zpsuysinfhj.jpg&hash=f4a4039f20f0991e038c3ba5025806a645613eb9)
Here I've blown up the area around the flag. There are several arrows pointing to various points where the sprues contact the piece you want to separate.
Typically I'll cut the sprue first at the points where the green arrows are, #1. Then once the item is free, I'll clip them again at point #2.
If I can't get the stub of the sprue completely flat I don't worry - that's what the jeweler's files are for.
Does that help?
Quote from: LongBlade on August 13, 2015, 12:37:55 PM
You're going to probably have the best luck with fine detail cutters such as these: http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-Precision-Sprue-Cutter-XUR410T/dp/B000BL8K6Y
There are lots of makers out there, look around and decide what you think is best for you.
Next, by "holder" I think you're referring to the casting sprue. Please refer to the diagram below:
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj349%2Flongblade%2FGrogHeads%2Fcasting%2520sprue%2520clip_zpsuysinfhj.jpg&hash=f4a4039f20f0991e038c3ba5025806a645613eb9)
Here I've blown up the area around the flag. There are several arrows pointing to various points where the sprues contact the piece you want to separate.
Typically I'll cut the sprue first at the points where the green arrows are, #1. Then once the item is free, I'll clip them again at point #2.
If I can't get the stub of the sprue completely flat I don't worry - that's what the jeweler's files are for.
Does that help?
Tremendously, thanks so much longblade! In the meantime, and definitely not recommended I have been so eager to get the figures out that I have been using a razor blade and gently applying it to these points, seems to work for the easy to remove figures. But i'll try and save my fingers and wait for the knife for the more "Stuck" figures xD.
If you're that eager to get going you can try fingernail clippers. They're a bit more difficult to use but should have the merit of being safer than an xacto knife.
Quote from: LongBlade on August 13, 2015, 01:10:44 PM
If you're that eager to get going you can try fingernail clippers. They're a bit more difficult to use but should have the merit of being safer than an xacto knife.
Great idea, now can I ask another question so I don't have to start a whole new thread? xD In terms of primer I bought the "Formula Black Spray on Primer" just how much primer do I need to apply? While a light spritz suffice for a tank?
There should be instructions on the can.
Most primers advise to spray about 8 - 12 inches from the model. You want to spray just enough to cover it. Don't overspray (put too much on it). If you need to put a light spray on, let it dry, and put another light on on it.
Just enough to cover the model is enough.
One question before you start: where are you doing the priming?
Quote from: LongBlade on August 13, 2015, 06:07:38 PM
There should be instructions on the can.
Most primers advise to spray about 8 - 12 inches from the model. You want to spray just enough to cover it. Don't overspray (put too much on it). If you need to put a light spray on, let it dry, and put another light on on it.
Just enough to cover the model is enough.
One question before you start: where are you doing the priming?
I tried in my room "Awful idea" but now I am just going up to the roof to do it as the contents of the can clearly aren't made to be inhaled xD.
Quote from: agrippamaxentius on August 13, 2015, 06:41:54 PM
I tried in my room "Awful idea" but now I am just going up to the roof to do it as the contents of the can clearly aren't made to be inhaled xD.
[/quote]
Ok, be aware that humidity can affect your priming. If you take them outside and there's high humidity let them stand out there for a while to warm up. Also let your primer sit out there for a bit to warm up. Best done in the shade. Don't let the primer get too hot, but try to come close to matching the air temp (within reason - 80 degrees is probably right).
Quote from: LongBlade on August 13, 2015, 09:23:19 PM
Quote from: agrippamaxentius on August 13, 2015, 06:41:54 PM
I tried in my room "Awful idea" but now I am just going up to the roof to do it as the contents of the can clearly aren't made to be inhaled xD.
Ok, be aware that humidity can affect your priming. If you take them outside and there's high humidity let them stand out there for a while to warm up. Also let your primer sit out there for a bit to warm up. Best done in the shade. Don't let the primer get too hot, but try to come close to matching the air temp (within reason - 80 degrees is probably right).
[/quote] Thanks LB! Your advice has been extremely helpful so far, just put together my first "STUG" now time to try and paint xD. Im a little worried about painting as the infantry figures are so tiny, but so beautiful at the same time. I hope I can manage!
I started using some bottled primer to brush it on. Definitely takes more time but I got sick of the widely varied midwestern weather & humidity screwing up the texture of my spray-on primers all the time.
So now I usually just paint my primer on with a brush, indoors. Best finds for that have been the Black Vallejo Primer and the Grey Badger stuff. They may say "air brush primer" but those are thick enough for a brush. The white & grey Vallejo primers were not - too runny. S'ok as I rarely use white primer anyway, although I may check out the Badger one, eventually, for the occasional stormtrooper & such.
I believe some people also keep a bottle of brush-on to cover small spots missed with the spray, after it's dried.
Quote from: Nefaro on August 14, 2015, 02:50:20 AM
I believe some people also keep a bottle of brush-on to cover small spots missed with the spray, after it's dried.
That's a great idea. Thanks!
You don't have to order special "sprue cutters" online- Lowe's or Home Depot will have the same things in the hardware section. Ask someone there for "wire nippers" or "cutters". I use them almost daily and it's the same thing. If that doesn't pan out though, any Hobbytown or even Hobby Lobby will have the sprue cutters.
Hey LB, I liked your tip for using Windex/glass cleaner for thinning and brush cleaning. I can't count how many little jars of Tester's thinner that I went through (at an outrageous price per each!).
Quote from: GJK on August 14, 2015, 07:11:02 AM
Hey LB, I liked your tip for using Windex/glass cleaner for thinning and brush cleaning. I can't count how many little jars of Tester's thinner that I went through (at an outrageous price per each!).
Hang on - I think the Testers stuff is for non-water-soluble paint. I have used it as a thinner for my airbrush and to brush on....
However, it has just dawned on me that natural hair brushes have oil on them and I do not know how the Windex may affect that. My brushes do seem to wear out quickly so I'm thinking I'm going to use the Windex trick only for the airbrush and see if my normal brushes fare any better.
Quote from: GJK on August 14, 2015, 07:11:02 AM
Hey LB, I liked your tip for using Windex/glass cleaner for thinning and brush cleaning. I can't count how many little jars of Tester's thinner that I went through (at an outrageous price per each!).
Well... for brush cleaning...
link (http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1439569215&sr=1-1&keywords=brush+cleaner)
Lasts so long it's worth cleaning cheap brushes. ;)
I actually like the 'spring' in the decent man-made brushes more than the much pricier soft fur ones. Only problem being they lose that tensile spring fairly quickly after some use. This has extended the life on the few favorites.
Groovy. Thanks, Nef!
Quote from: LongBlade on August 14, 2015, 02:57:40 PM
Groovy. Thanks, Nef!
It's great stuff. Can even clean up some of the older paint in brushes. But it also serves a similar purpose as hair conditioner, keeping the bristles healthier when it comes to those that use some kind of animal hair.
The small jar I have will last a long time. O0
That looks like just the ticket...tired of buying new brushes all the time!
There isn't much to using it, and I'm sure you guys know how to treat brushes, but what sold me on it was a YT vid someone did regarding the stuff.
There are numerous vid reviews and suggestions. This is just one I noticed quickly, although I prefer to use a small sponge or paper towel for the final wipings (instead of on my skin like this guy does):
Note: I think these guys that lick their dirty or chemical covered brushes are nuts. So I don't condone it at all. I don't even like willing getting anything on my skin regularly (including paint). But you get the point how useful this goop is.
You really will see more old paint colors coming out of your brush, onto the towel/sponge/whatevah, although it's not very noticeable in that vid.
I went down to Michaels and bought some brush cleaner. Different brand, but same idea. I cleaned all my brushes with it and left them overnight to dry. But my first look indicated that they appear much improved. Will break them out after some (https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1081.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fj349%2Flongblade%2FSmilies%2Fcoffeepot-1.gif&hash=83479bf951b923b33b28a770564e087b8629d880) to share some thoughts.
Hey, Nef. So I used a 000, 0, and a 2 which had all been fairly frayed. That brush cleaner worked amazingly well. I just bought a bunch of new brushes and now I'm putting them on ice as the old ones are working great.