Whats on your painting table/workbench?

[LongBlade]

They are good! What do you use for the grass? It looks thinner than what I've seen on most of the minis out there.

I've heard if you use the regular grass but put it in plastic cement the blades stand up. That might be one of the secrets.

[TheCommandTent]

I just randomly smear white Elmers glue on the base in a thing layer and then cover it with the flocking I mentioned above.  I let it sit completely covered for about 10-15 minutes so they glue can absorb some of the flocking and start to dry.  Then I take the figure out and gently blow off the lose flocking.  This does a surprisingly good job of making some of the grass stand up.  After everything is dried I usually blow it off one more time just to get rid of any more lose flocking.  Its very simple result but it works for me.

[TheCommandTent]

Is the third guy from the left a medieval Chuck Norris? I think that might be cheating...

That thought never even crossed my mind.  That is kind of funny. 

[Ubercat]

Chuck Norris doesn't shoot arrows. He lets go and they fly away in fear.

[TheCommandTent]

Chuck Norris doesn't shoot arrows. He lets go and they fly away in fear.

HA!

[LongBlade]

I'm a bit short on time this morning so I haven't had a chance to compress these to a reasonable size. Therefore I'm going to offer links rather than embed them in the forums - the four images total 16 MB and I don't want to clog up anyone's browser. Will try to get them compressed tonight for more convenient viewing.

I'm afraid they show off my lack of skill more than anything, but hopefully they will be appreciated in the spirit of things rather than wholly on their deficiencies. There are still some little things to clean up (rust on one of the road wheels, for instance) that I still need to get to, and I'm not happy with the rust wash from GW. But I think you'll be able to see where I'm going with these.

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j349/longblade/GrogHeads/DSCN2681.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j349/longblade/GrogHeads/DSCN2680.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j349/longblade/GrogHeads/DSCN2679.jpg

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j349/longblade/GrogHeads/DSCN2678.jpg

[Staggerwing]

Cool! Was the cottage part of a kit? Did you 'distress' it? from it's original state?

[W8taminute]

You know something LB, I really like these a lot.  Apply that talent to baked goods and you could make a mighty fine birthday cake for some Groghead child, like me maybe? 

[undercovergeek]

good work - how about some smoke from the damaged cottage (god knows how - black and grey cotton wool?)

[LongBlade]

Cool! Was the cottage part of a kit? Did you 'distress' it? from it's original state?

The cottage is from JR Miniatures. It came as-is, but unpainted.

BTW, the scale is Flames of War. I should have put a quarter or something down there for scale. It's only four or so inches across.

[LongBlade]

good work - how about some smoke from the damaged cottage (god knows how - black and grey cotton wool?)

That's a good idea. I was thinking about teasing out some threads from a cotton ball, but I wanted something of the full effect of seeing into it to be left. Besides, transporting to and from games the smoke is likely to be crunched. I don't really consider anything I do "done" as I'm usually not good enough to be able to leave anything alone. There's always something that needs to be touched up.

I received several of these JR miniatures models as a gift. I'm working on some more now. Will share them as they get closer to done.

[TheCommandTent]

Awesome work LB!  I understand the hesitancy to make smoke coming out of the building but I think it would really add to the piece.  You could just do a thin layer at the base of the smoke so you can still see through it into the house.  As for transporting it to games, its cotton and you can just tease it up once you get it on the table.

[LongBlade]

Awesome work LB!  I understand the hesitancy to make smoke coming out of the building but I think it would really add to the piece.  You could just do a thin layer at the base of the smoke so you can still see through it into the house.  As for transporting it to games, its cotton and you can just tease it up once you get it on the table.

I've had several people comment on adding smoke - so much so that I guess it just needs to be done. I may have to work on it tonight.

[TheCommandTent]

Awesome work LB!  I understand the hesitancy to make smoke coming out of the building but I think it would really add to the piece.  You could just do a thin layer at the base of the smoke so you can still see through it into the house.  As for transporting it to games, its cotton and you can just tease it up once you get it on the table.

I've had several people comment on adding smoke - so much so that I guess it just needs to be done. I may have to work on it tonight.

LB here are a couple links I was able to find in my huge collection of bookmarked sites for wargaming that may be of some help or at least give you some ideas.

http://www.elladan.de/021%20Fire%20and%20Smoke/021.htm

http://www.elladan.de/053%20Burning%20tyres%20and%20oildrums/053.htm

http://www.blmablog.com/2011/03/making-smoke-and-flames.html

http://anatolisgameroom.blogspot.com/2011/08/knocked-out-vehicle-markers-tutorial.html

[W8taminute]

Taken from the anatolisgameroom link TCT shared above. 



Look at this example of an SU-100 and it's weathered armor.  Look at the 'muddy' tracks.  The picture probably doesn't do it justice but this model kind of looks like a birthday cake with frosting.  I think it's because the proportion of the weathered elements do not match the scale of the model itself.  The rusted areas, the mud, the dents and dings on the armor are all handpainted with a brush that has a resolution of a millimeter or two.  A brush with a resolution of 80µm to 250µm is needed to scale these affects properly with the model.