I haven't built one of these since I was 12. Any tips? JD, I'm looking in your direction...
(https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/421882870_10160596448722702_4283728807628008953_n.jpg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=107&cb=99be929b-8d691acd&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=3635dc&_nc_ohc=3rgOkqkrPYQAX_jxZ3h&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-2.xx&oh=00_AfBetuM0QT0I-0nssgyk8vm3kxgDI04x5mG9kugWy7vkYw&oe=65BE7E6C)
I don't know how you plan to place the pony on the flight deck, but I'm intrigued.
Seriously though. If you plan to paint it, first thing is wash all the sprues in lukewarm water with some detergent and scrub them down with a toothbrush. This will remove any residual floc used during the casting process.
Get a file or emory board and some good clippers. Only snip out the pieces you plan on building. File off any excess bits after clipping. Rinsing with water and filing with emory can help smooth out rough patches.
Do a pre-fit test before gluing. If anything is warped or misaligned, you can try the following.
Heat the piece in hot water and try to reshape it.
Use a small drill to enlarge any slots where the piece doesn't fit properly.
If you plan to paint, use a putty filler to fill in any gaps and seam lines then sand it smooth.
Use an x-acto knife to gently scrape away mold lines.
Pre-paint interior pieces before assembling and gluing. Some can be a bitch to get to later.
Have fun with it and don't beat yourself up if it doesn't come out perfect.
Expect to lose pieces into an alternate dimension while building. It's amazing how thoroughly they disappear once dropped.
Expect to glue yourself to a piece and leave sticky bits/fingerprints on some surfaces.
Thanks, although I'll need a modeling dictionary to look up some of that terminology. Stupid question... Prime before painting?
My daughters are all grown up.
I miss the days when their toys, My Little Pony or otherwise, would end up getting mixed in with my mancave.
JD would best be able to give good advice. His work is outstanding. I'm surprised Star hasn't posted here yet. I know he's quite the model maker himself IIRC from the old days.
Quote from: Jarhead0331 on January 30, 2024, 07:20:59 PMThanks, although I'll need a modeling dictionary to look up some of that terminology. Stupid question... Prime before painting?
Yes, you'll want to use a primer or a micro-surfacer on the model first. Think of it as an undercoat. You use a spray can, an airbrush, or a paintbrush to coat the plastic with a primer (I do not recommend using a brush). The primer will provide a coating which your paints will adhere to better than they will to bare plastic.
I like the fine spray primers from AK Interactive but just about anything is fine. Citadel stuff is too expensive though.
Vallejo or Army Painter are decent choices.
If you want a micro surfacer (good for smoothing out rough patches from sanding), Mr. Hobby is the best imo.
Here's a link to some typical tools and aids you might want to pick up. You don't have to get these exact models. These are just typical examples.
1) Modelling drill. (https://www.meeplemart.com/tamiya-fine-pin-vise-d-r-0-1-3-2mm.aspx) This is for drilling out holes. Useful for basing minis, expanding holes on a model when the peg doesn't quite fit, and re-drilling a hole if you screwed up and need to re-glue something.
2) X-acto knife. (https://www.meeplemart.com/gf9-utility-comfort-grip-knife.aspx) (You could also get a specialized mold line remover tool (https://www.meeplemart.com/vallejo-hobby-tools-mold-line-remover.aspx) instead). Useful for scraping mold lines off minis and trimming flash or scraping excess glue off after it dries.
3) Clippers. (https://www.meeplemart.com/mr-hobby-tools-mr-sharpness-nipper.aspx) Use to cut individual parts off of the sprue.
4) Tweezers. (https://www.meeplemart.com/vallejo-hobby-tools-strong-curved-stainless-steel-tweezers-175mm.aspx) Hard to say what type you should get. Everyone has their preferences. I like the ones that default closed and you exert pressure to open. I find I sometimes squeeze too hard with regular tweezers and launch the part I'm holding off into the void.
5) Some files. (https://www.meeplemart.com/hasegawa-trytool-file-set-standard-type-tt-15.aspx) Use to clean up any bits of sprue that the clippers missed and to reshape bits so they glue together better.
6) Emory board or sanding stick. (https://www.meeplemart.com/bandai-spirits-model-sanding-stick-set.aspx) Can also be used to file bits of sprue off but these are a finer grain so they're good for sanding delicate bits or smoothing out rough spots.
7) A primer. (https://www.meeplemart.com/army-painter-primer-ash-grey.aspx) If you're working with naval stuff, a light grey is probably best.
8) Some model glue. (https://www.meeplemart.com/ammo-mig-extra-thin-cement-30ml.aspx) Again, the type comes down to personal preference. I like Tamiya ultra thin insta cure. Some people like slower drying stuff. I'd recommend some sort of cyanoacrylate as it creates the best bond for plastics.
9) Filling putty. (https://www.meeplemart.com/store/p/79901-AK-Interactive-Technical-MODELING-WHITE-PUTTY-20-ml-clone.aspx) Used to fill in gaps where the pieces of the model don't fit together seamlessly.
I think that's enough to get you started. Once you're ready to paint and decal, it's time for even more stuff!
Thanks a lot SDR! Appreciate all the great advice and info.
Post some pics of some of the stuff you've built when you get a chance.
I mainly make models for games. My ships here are all for Cruel Seas. The destroyers are kinda beat up from being repeatedly packed and unpacked for games nights.
The armor and infantry are my Canuck units for Bolt Action/Chain of Command.
The Royal Navy destroyer in particular has lost a lot of components.
One of the pics I took of the German boat in dazzle camo came out blurry so I didn't post it.
You can see that I couldn't get the entire mold line off the helmets for the guys in the Bren Carrier and it really stands out.
That's a fairly representative sample. I've got about 80 boats and ships done and about 20 vehicles and AT guns as well as 50 or so infantry.
Wow, man! That's all really impressive. Love the details like rust, weathering and wear. Fantastic! :notworthy:
Extra weathering hides all the screw ups.
I can't afford to look at this thread much more.
Quote from: Silent Disapproval Robot on January 31, 2024, 03:41:39 AMExtra weathering hides all the screw ups.
What scale is that armor and the ships? I suspect they are quite small...
The destroyers are 1/350 scale. The smaller boats are 1/300.
The army stuff is 28mm. I think that's around 1/56.
Quote from: Gusington on January 31, 2024, 08:54:48 AMI can't afford to look at this thread much more.
You and me both.
Just one of my closets...
(https://i.ibb.co/d4LXHGb/stuff.jpg)
^Are those all built? You may have a problem.
Quote from: Gusington on January 31, 2024, 11:11:17 AM^Are those all built? You may have a problem.
None of those are built, that's my problem.
Confirmed, good luck. Help is available. But not here.
Quote from: Gusington on January 31, 2024, 11:37:40 AMConfirmed, good luck. Help is available. But not here.
Good news is the newest of those I bought in 2002. My problem is I need to refresh my paints and get a new double action airbrush. Just never found the time.
That is really impressive SDR.
Well, if SDR gets to show his I get to show mine. Keep in mind this was all work of the under 25 version of me...
(https://i.ibb.co/7yjgX3B/display.jpg)
And of course the reason I stopped doing historicals. Really need to get the duster out...
(https://i.ibb.co/sRDXm8b/cadia.jpg)
You truly are a grog because you have an M11/39 tank on display. Your average Joe doesn't even know what that is.
Respect meter just jumped up 5 points for you Haha!
How is the under 25 version of you (D) different than the current version?
The dangly bits didn't hit the toilet water when you sat down at 25?
Quote from: Gusington on January 31, 2024, 04:55:33 PMHow is the under 25 version of you (D) different than the current version?
More hair, better shape, worse resume not as good of a modeler/painter.
Quote from: W8taminute on January 31, 2024, 04:34:27 PMYou truly are a grog because you have an M11/39 tank on display.
M13/40 actually.
Quote from: SirAndrewD on January 31, 2024, 05:24:33 PMM13/40 actually.
Well I was close. Can I still be a grog? :grin:
Quote from: W8taminute on January 31, 2024, 09:53:00 PMQuote from: SirAndrewD on January 31, 2024, 05:24:33 PMM13/40 actually.
Well I was close. Can I still be a grog? :grin:
I'll allow it.
I also have a Polish Tankette kit from an obscure out of print foreign distributor...
(https://i.ibb.co/XYyZ8nW/poles.jpg)
Quote from: SirAndrewD on January 31, 2024, 10:54:32 AMQuote from: Gusington on January 31, 2024, 08:54:48 AMI can't afford to look at this thread much more.
(https://i.ibb.co/d4LXHGb/stuff.jpg)
the good news is that youre 1/3 the way to making the engine deck of the Falcon.
(https://www.internetmodeler.com/artman/uploads/1/IMG_0368.JPG)
also, you've done some really nice work there SDR. :ThumbsUp:
I'm going to start here and make some edits specifically for JH.
Quote from: Silent Disapproval Robot on January 31, 2024, 12:38:15 AMHere's a link to some typical tools and aids you might want to pick up. You don't have to get these exact models. These are just typical examples.
1) Modelling drill. (https://www.meeplemart.com/tamiya-fine-pin-vise-d-r-0-1-3-2mm.aspx) This is for drilling out holes. Useful for basing minis, expanding holes on a model when the peg doesn't quite fit, and re-drilling a hole if you screwed up and need to re-glue something.
at the moment you dont need this but I would imagine you have something similar from smithing.
2) X-acto knife. (https://www.meeplemart.com/gf9-utility-comfort-grip-knife.aspx) (You could also get a specialized mold line remover tool (https://www.meeplemart.com/vallejo-hobby-tools-mold-line-remover.aspx) instead). Useful for scraping mold lines off minis and trimming flash or scraping excess glue off after it dries.
the # 10 blade is what you want to use for this as it doesnt so readily make flat spot where they shouldnt exist.
3) Clippers. (https://www.meeplemart.com/mr-hobby-tools-mr-sharpness-nipper.aspx) Use to cut individual parts off of the sprue.
use Xuron clippers and only Xuron clippers! also, get a roll of 2 inch blue tape. make a loop with the sticky side out and flatten that on your work space. ya put the small bits down on the tape and then clip them. this is REALLY important with photo etch parts.
4) Tweezers. (https://www.meeplemart.com/vallejo-hobby-tools-strong-curved-stainless-steel-tweezers-175mm.aspx) Hard to say what type you should get. Everyone has their preferences. I like the ones that default closed and you exert pressure to open. I find I sometimes squeeze too hard with regular tweezers and launch the part I'm holding off into the void.
again, you should have what you need from smithing and if not grab a pair of your wifes Revlon tweezers. thats all you need for this.
5) Some files. (https://www.meeplemart.com/hasegawa-trytool-file-set-standard-type-tt-15.aspx) Use to clean up any bits of sprue that the clippers missed and to reshape bits so they glue together better.
use nothing below 200 grit. just dont.
6) Emory board or sanding stick. (https://www.meeplemart.com/bandai-spirits-model-sanding-stick-set.aspx) Can also be used to file bits of sprue off but these are a finer grain so they're good for sanding delicate bits or smoothing out rough spots.
these should not be lower then 400 grit.
7) A primer. (https://www.meeplemart.com/army-painter-primer-ash-grey.aspx) If you're working with naval stuff, a light grey is probably best.
MR Surfacer 1000 spray can is your best bet.
8) Some model glue. (https://www.meeplemart.com/ammo-mig-extra-thin-cement-30ml.aspx) Again, the type comes down to personal preference. I like Tamiya ultra thin insta cure. Some people like slower drying stuff. I'd recommend some sort of cyanoacrylate as it creates the best bond for plastics.
Testors liquid cement is what you want to use on this and is lays down flat and allows some moving around for adjustments. this is a learning model, treat it as such.
9) Filling putty. (https://www.meeplemart.com/store/p/79901-AK-Interactive-Technical-MODELING-WHITE-PUTTY-20-ml-clone.aspx) Used to fill in gaps where the pieces of the model don't fit together seamlessly.
Bondo, squeeze tube, spot filler found in the paint section of any Lowes or Home Despot. dries quick, sands to scale and paints great. use an Xacto #18 blade as a spackle knife.
I think that's enough to get you started. Once you're ready to paint and decal, it's time for even more stuff!
I'll be sending you to an auto part store.
oh I have advice after skimming through this.
the back half of the video is the important part because I can see the sprues.
there are a lot of very finely cast parts so your going to have to deconstruct the sprue itself.
all those parts have numbers and youre going to want to use clippers and cut them out by numbered sections.
depending on the parts, youre going to have to cut the sprues of a lot of those subsections.
the reason for this it post cast tension. parts like the uh-60 rotor or the antenna have a spring/tension to them. you try to cut them directly off the sprue in place theres a chance of a snap or fracture and that will make you rage.
of all the subjects you could pick, why did you go with a carrier?
Quote from: GDS_Starfury on February 03, 2024, 10:01:59 AMof all the subjects you could pick, why did you go with a carrier?
1. I bought it on impulse at my local Hobby Lobby and they didn't have the biggest selection
2. I used to built these quickly as a kid and then play with the little aircraft. It brings back those memories.
3. I love naval aviation. Specifically, late Cold War naval aviation.
Why? What's wrong with a carrier? If I build it well enough, it may also be worthy of display.
Carriers are kickass.
I miss my USS Lexington I built when I was a kid. One of those infamous "broken in a move" casualties.
was just wondering
but I now have a visual of you in your man cave running around having dogfights with little F-14s
Quote from: SirAndrewD on February 03, 2024, 11:28:27 AMCarriers are kickass.
I miss my USS Lexington I built when I was a kid. One of those infamous "broken in a move" casualties.
My carrier from childhood sank after being filled with sugar and saltpeter and set alight. :flaming:
OK, it didn't so much sink as burned to the water.line.
well?
Quote from: GDS_Starfury on February 05, 2024, 11:26:59 PMwell?
I decided to go with the Wisconsin instead. Still have a lot to work on, but its my first build in over 30 years.
(https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/425495470_10226024857233907_1592362110767886893_n.jpg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=100&cb=99be929b-8d691acd&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c42490&_nc_ohc=3yMp3TzAIKYAX-nendR&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-2.xx&oh=00_AfDb-gVvSd9LdVnTSmX8KaPL_IawZZDJW2wgflX_sqYlQg&oe=65C7312D)
(https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/425491886_10226024857513914_1564325438039488031_n.jpg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=107&cb=99be929b-8d691acd&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c42490&_nc_ohc=RjNhZmU3QngAX9i02le&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-2.xx&oh=00_AfBIeADTUXdoD9cQoOWiOQgFMg-zRD4yLn8F32bb4tbaPA&oe=65C719BC)
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/425522829_10226024857433912_3573278421474429257_n.jpg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=102&cb=99be929b-8d691acd&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c42490&_nc_ohc=PXhiTShh6BoAX8wRHyM&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-1.xx&oh=00_AfDXLSiYC9QFcH7CZ2fnHaGMUtbTR-WtgECgPOcr9AZQNw&oe=65C81B1C)
(https://scontent-lga3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/425476354_10226024857313909_3356164885799773856_n.jpg?stp=cp6_dst-jpg&_nc_cat=100&cb=99be929b-8d691acd&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c42490&_nc_ohc=87Gi9eRVTpAAX_IsgAI&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-2.xx&oh=00_AfDc1L6SveV5SH7chUx54OdxwhzP_XGVw2ts9gN238-GMw&oe=65C821FA)
What scale?
I've been following this Japanese lady as she attempts to build a 1/200 scale version of the Yamato. She's also gone the extra step and ordered higher detail brass etched components. It's absolute insanity.
Sadly, she hasn't posted any updates in over 2 months. I hope she didn't give up.
QuoteI decided to go with the Wisconsin instead. Still have a lot to work on, but its my first build in over 30 years.
brilliant idea! go with the ship with 5x as many small parts. :ROFL:
whos RC battleship is that?
well?
...
I'm working on it. This project is going to take time. Especially given all the information provided. I want to do it right!
By coincidence, I have also started a plastic modeling journey after a very long time away from it.
So the advice on this thread has been good and timely.
My reintroduction project is a 1/48 scale Curtiss JN-4 Jenny. I have some personal connection with the Jenny so I thought I would do that.
Anyway, I have spent about a month hoarding paint and tools, while watching videos.
I should get started on it soon; but I'm not in a hurry.
Quote from: ArizonaTank on February 20, 2024, 11:20:07 AMAnyway, I have spent about a month hoarding paint and tools, while watching videos.
I should get started on it soon; but I'm not in a hurry.
+1. This is where I'm at. When I picked up the kit, I only got glue and some razor blades. I'm in the process of getting paint and the other supplies mentioned in this thread. I'm also not in a hurry and want to enjoy this prospective old, but new hobby at a leisurely pace.
Quote from: Jarhead0331 on February 20, 2024, 11:51:20 AM+1. This is where I'm at. When I picked up the kit, I only got glue and some razor blades. I'm in the process of getting paint and the other supplies mentioned in this thread. I'm also not in a hurry and want to enjoy this prospective old, but new hobby at a leisurely pace.
Yeah, it is funny because I got an old boxed model off of ebay for $5 plus shipping (the Jenny is not a popular subject I guess). But I have probably spent about $150 on all the other stuff to build it (including rigging to do the wires on the wings and tail). But now I'm thinking about getting an airbrush. All that for a $5 model... :shocked:
Well, I guess the good news will be that I'll be ready for the next model If I can find the shelf space, I have my eye on a 1/16 scale WWI Renault FT-17 tank. At least the Jenny doesn't need a shelf, I can hang it from the ceiling. :Dreamer:
if you get the photo etch sets for the battleship get two of them.
I recently received my KS copy of the 6th edition of Car Wars. It comes with a bunch of car minis that are straight out of 1970s=era dystopian sci-fi movies like Death Race. Painting them has taken my right out of my comfort zone. I tend to paint historical stuff and try to get the colours and details to match historical data. I go for matte finishes with lots of weathering and wear.
These cars are the opposite. They're supposed to be high gloss or satin finish with lots of bright colours and clean finishes. I know how I should paint them. I should slowly and methodically put down a base layer, then do a bunch of layering, blending, glazing, shading, and edge highlighting. Thing is, I'm lazy and the two things I hate more than anything (apart from eyes) when it comes to minis painting are layering and glazing.
I've been farting around with various "cheat" techniques but so far, none of the results are really working as well as I'd hoped. I tried the "slap-chop" Grisaille method using speedpaints and inks over a base-shaded mini. Problem is, the speedpaints go on too blotchy over smooth surfaces if you use a brush. I tried an airbrush and it actually looked pretty decent but it was far too hard to mask everything so there was always some overspray and you can't really fix that if using inks or speedpaints.
Then I tried airbrushing regular paints mixed with some metal medium. That didn't work well at all. The metallic flakes were too diffuse so the cars came out looking sparkly, not metallic.
For my third method, I tried using a gloss black primer and then putting down base layers of colour-shift type paints over top. It actually came out looking pretty cool but the problem with the colour-shift paints is the colour-range is very limited. Blue-purple, green-pink, blue-green, gold-green, red-copper, or prismatic are really the only choices. The other issue is, you cannot put any sort of varnish or wash over the paint or it removes the shifting effect. The lack of a wash makes the details less apparent and the lack of varnish means the paints will quickly lose their gloss due to oily fingers.
The new Army Painter Fanatic paint range seems almost tailor-made to paint these things as they're meant to be, but I'll be damned if I'm going to shell out for yet another paint range, especially one that's specifically designed for the whole layering, blending, and highlighting thing.