So this is happening...

[SirAndrewD]

M13/40 actually.

Well I was close.  Can I still be a grog? 

I'll allow it. 

I also have a Polish Tankette kit from an obscure out of print foreign distributor...

[GDS_Starfury]

I can't afford to look at this thread much more.

the good news is that youre 1/3 the way to making the engine deck of the Falcon.

[GDS_Starfury]

also, you've done some really nice work there SDR. 

[GDS_Starfury]

I'm going to start here and make some edits specifically for JH.

Here's a link to some typical tools and aids you might want to pick up.  You don't have to get these exact models.  These are just typical examples.


1)  Modelling drill.  This is for drilling out holes.  Useful for basing minis, expanding holes on a model when the peg doesn't quite fit, and re-drilling a hole if you screwed up and need to re-glue something.
at the moment you dont need this but I would imagine you have something similar from smithing.

2)  X-acto knife.  (You could also get a specialized mold line remover tool instead).  Useful for scraping mold lines off minis and trimming flash or scraping excess glue off after it dries.
the # 10 blade is what you want to use for this as it doesnt so readily make flat spot where they shouldnt exist.


3)  Clippers.    Use to cut individual parts off of the sprue.
use Xuron clippers and only Xuron clippers!  also, get a roll of 2 inch blue tape.  make a loop with the sticky side out and flatten that on your work space.  ya put the small bits down on the tape and then clip them.  this is REALLY important with photo etch parts.

4) Tweezers.  Hard to say what type you should get.  Everyone has their preferences.  I like the ones that default closed and you exert pressure to open.  I find I sometimes squeeze too hard with regular tweezers and launch the part I'm holding off into the void.
again, you should have what you need from smithing and if not grab a pair of your wifes Revlon tweezers.  thats all you need for this.

5)  Some files.   Use to clean up any bits of sprue that the clippers missed and to reshape bits so they glue together better.
use nothing below 200 grit.  just dont.

6)  Emory board or sanding stick.   Can also be used to file bits of sprue off but these are a finer grain so they're good for sanding delicate bits or smoothing out rough spots.
these should not be lower then 400 grit.

7)  A primer.  If you're working with naval stuff, a light grey is probably best.
MR Surfacer 1000 spray can is your best bet.

8)  Some model glue.  Again, the type comes down to personal preference.  I like Tamiya ultra thin insta cure.  Some people like slower drying stuff.  I'd recommend some sort of cyanoacrylate as it creates the best bond for plastics.
Testors liquid cement is what you want to use on this and is lays down flat and allows some moving around for adjustments.  this is a learning model, treat it as such.

9)  Filling putty.   Used to fill in gaps where the pieces of the model don't fit together seamlessly.
Bondo, squeeze tube, spot filler found in the paint section of any Lowes or Home Despot.  dries quick, sands to scale and paints great.  use an Xacto #18 blade as a spackle knife.


I think that's enough to get you started.  Once you're ready to paint and decal, it's time for even more stuff!
I'll be sending you to an auto part store.

[GDS_Starfury]

oh I have advice after skimming through this.
the back half of the video is the important part because I can see the sprues.

there are a lot of very finely cast parts so your going to have to deconstruct the sprue itself.
all those parts have numbers and youre going to want to use clippers and cut them out by numbered sections.
depending on the parts, youre going to have to cut the sprues of a lot of those subsections.
the reason for this it post cast tension.  parts like the uh-60 rotor or the antenna have a spring/tension to them.  you try to cut them directly off the sprue in place theres a chance of a snap or fracture and that will make you rage.

[GDS_Starfury]

of all the subjects you could pick, why did you go with a carrier?

[Jarhead0331]

of all the subjects you could pick, why did you go with a carrier?

1. I bought it on impulse at my local Hobby Lobby and they didn't have the biggest selection
2. I used to built these quickly as a kid and then play with the little aircraft. It brings back those memories.
3. I love naval aviation. Specifically, late Cold War naval aviation.

Why? What's wrong with a carrier? If I build it well enough, it may also be worthy of display.

[SirAndrewD]

Carriers are kickass. 

I miss my USS Lexington I built when I was a kid.  One of those infamous "broken in a move" casualties.

[GDS_Starfury]

was just wondering
but I now have a visual of you in your man cave running around having dogfights with little F-14s

[bobarossa]

Carriers are kickass. 

I miss my USS Lexington I built when I was a kid.  One of those infamous "broken in a move" casualties.

My carrier from childhood sank after being filled with sugar and saltpeter and set alight.
OK, it didn't so much sink as burned to the water.line.

[GDS_Starfury]

well?

[Jarhead0331]

well?

I decided to go with the Wisconsin instead. Still have a lot to work on, but its my first build in over 30 years.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

What scale?

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

I've been following this Japanese lady as she attempts to build a 1/200 scale version of the Yamato.  She's also gone the extra step and ordered higher detail brass etched components.  It's absolute insanity.

Sadly, she hasn't posted any updates in over 2 months.  I hope she didn't give up. 

[GDS_Starfury]

I decided to go with the Wisconsin instead. Still have a lot to work on, but its my first build in over 30 years.

brilliant idea!  go with the ship with 5x as many small parts. 
whos RC battleship is that?