So this is happening...

[Jarhead0331]

I haven't built one of these since I was 12. Any tips? JD, I'm looking in your direction...

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

I don't know how you plan to place the pony on the flight deck, but I'm intrigued.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

Seriously though.  If you plan to paint it, first thing is wash all the sprues in lukewarm water with some detergent and scrub them down with a toothbrush.  This will remove any residual floc used during the casting process.

Get a file or emory board and some good clippers.  Only snip out the pieces you plan on building. File off any excess bits after clipping.  Rinsing with water and filing with emory can help smooth out rough patches.

Do a pre-fit test before gluing. If anything is warped or misaligned, you can try the following. 

Heat the piece in hot water and try to reshape it.

Use a small drill to enlarge any slots where the piece doesn't fit properly.

If you plan to paint, use a putty filler to fill in any gaps and seam lines then sand it smooth.

Use an x-acto knife to gently scrape away mold lines.


Pre-paint interior pieces before assembling and gluing.  Some can be a bitch to get to later.


Have fun with it and don't beat yourself up if it doesn't come out perfect.

Expect to lose pieces into an alternate dimension while building.  It's amazing how thoroughly they disappear once dropped.

Expect to glue yourself to a piece and leave sticky bits/fingerprints on some surfaces. 

[Jarhead0331]

Thanks, although I'll need a modeling dictionary to look up some of that terminology. Stupid question... Prime before painting?

[W8taminute]

My daughters are all grown up. 

I miss the days when their toys, My Little Pony or otherwise, would end up getting mixed in with my mancave.

JD would best be able to give good advice.  His work is outstanding.  I'm surprised Star hasn't posted here yet.  I know he's quite the model maker himself IIRC from the old days. 

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

Thanks, although I'll need a modeling dictionary to look up some of that terminology. Stupid question... Prime before painting?

Yes, you'll want to use a primer or a micro-surfacer on the model first.  Think of it as an undercoat.  You use a spray can, an airbrush, or a paintbrush to coat the plastic with a primer (I do not recommend using a brush).  The primer will provide a coating which your paints will adhere to better than they will to bare plastic.

I like the fine spray primers from AK Interactive but just about anything is fine.  Citadel stuff is too expensive though.

Vallejo or Army Painter are decent choices.

If you want a micro surfacer (good for smoothing out rough patches from sanding), Mr. Hobby is the best imo.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

Here's a link to some typical tools and aids you might want to pick up.  You don't have to get these exact models.  These are just typical examples.


1)  Modelling drill.  This is for drilling out holes.  Useful for basing minis, expanding holes on a model when the peg doesn't quite fit, and re-drilling a hole if you screwed up and need to re-glue something.

2)  X-acto knife.  (You could also get a specialized mold line remover tool instead).  Useful for scraping mold lines off minis and trimming flash or scraping excess glue off after it dries.

3)  Clippers.    Use to cut individual parts off of the sprue.

4) Tweezers.  Hard to say what type you should get.  Everyone has their preferences.  I like the ones that default closed and you exert pressure to open.  I find I sometimes squeeze too hard with regular tweezers and launch the part I'm holding off into the void.

5)  Some files.   Use to clean up any bits of sprue that the clippers missed and to reshape bits so they glue together better.

6)  Emory board or sanding stick.   Can also be used to file bits of sprue off but these are a finer grain so they're good for sanding delicate bits or smoothing out rough spots.

7)  A primer.  If you're working with naval stuff, a light grey is probably best.

8)  Some model glue.  Again, the type comes down to personal preference.  I like Tamiya ultra thin insta cure.  Some people like slower drying stuff.  I'd recommend some sort of cyanoacrylate as it creates the best bond for plastics.

9)  Filling putty.   Used to fill in gaps where the pieces of the model don't fit together seamlessly.


I think that's enough to get you started.  Once you're ready to paint and decal, it's time for even more stuff!

 

[Jarhead0331]

Thanks a lot SDR! Appreciate all the great advice and info.

Post some pics of some of the stuff you've built when you get a chance.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

I mainly make models for games.  My ships here are all for Cruel Seas.  The destroyers are kinda beat up from being repeatedly packed and unpacked for games nights.


The armor and infantry are my Canuck units for Bolt Action/Chain of Command.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

The Royal Navy destroyer in particular has lost a lot of components.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

One of the pics I took of the German boat in dazzle camo came out blurry so I didn't post it.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

You can see that I couldn't get the entire mold line off the helmets for the guys in the Bren Carrier and it really stands out.

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

That's a fairly representative sample.  I've got about 80 boats and ships done and about 20 vehicles and AT guns as well as 50 or so infantry.

[Jarhead0331]

Wow, man! That's all really impressive. Love the details like rust, weathering and wear. Fantastic! 

[Silent Disapproval Robot]

Extra weathering hides all the screw ups.