I guess this goes in here.
I've been working on hthis slowly for months now. It's finally time to paint it
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Awesome JD! Great job on the crew.
Can't wait to see it painted. Thanks for sharing the pics!
Nice! It actually looks pretty sweet unpainted, IMHO.
Thanks.
The crew - well...my hands aren't very steady nowadays and my eyesight isn't great....so the crew was a challenge.
As for it looking ok without paint - I know what you mean but a combination of the plastic "sheen", a bit or glue overspill and smoothing of jaddies = paint required. Besides - if I'm honest, the painting part is my favourite bit :)
Looking good, makes me want to have a bash again. I have the same problem and had to give up painting figures due to my eyes. I really miss painting as well, the last stuff I did was Imperial Guard for 40K.
I then had a go at some 10mm figs for a projected Franco-Prussian DBA army - what a bloody mess I made of 'em :-((
Yeha Bob - I think it affects us all - at differening levels and different stages of our lives. If you're lukcy that it evades you - then count your blessings.
What colors are you going to use?
Light grey below, dark grey and dark green above...like so...
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Beautiful!
That looks great. I am looking forward to seeing it painted.
Great stuff, Judge.
If we get enough interest we can create a new modeling forum or expand the minis section to also include modeling.
I'm traveling right now, but can't wait to get back to do some painting.
I love doing the - but I take my time and enjoy it. I think this is the first one I've built this year.
My wife isn't too supportive of my hobby and I'm struggling to see where I can put them. The only place I have is the window and it's getting full.
After this I have a 1:72 scale B-17. I'm a bit sad because I bought a make I thought was good (Eduardo I think it is) and when I opened it it looks pretty simple.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on June 25, 2012, 01:17:17 AM
My wife isn't too supportive of my hobby and I'm struggling to see where I can put them. The only place I have is the window and it's getting full.
Hang them from the ceiling!
Quote from: LongBlade on June 25, 2012, 09:20:50 AM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on June 25, 2012, 01:17:17 AM
My wife isn't too supportive of my hobby and I'm struggling to see where I can put them. The only place I have is the window and it's getting full.
Hang them from the ceiling!
^with all the love for the hobby... i think that's a little to harsh punishment for J2D's wife ;)
I agree - very harsh. She's a lovely woman!
But I might hang my aircraft from the ceiling!
Quote from: MikeGER on June 25, 2012, 09:31:14 AM
Quote from: LongBlade on June 25, 2012, 09:20:50 AM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on June 25, 2012, 01:17:17 AM
My wife isn't too supportive of my hobby and I'm struggling to see where I can put them. The only place I have is the window and it's getting full.
Hang them from the ceiling!
^with all the love for the hobby... i think that's a little to harsh punishment for J2D's wife ;)
JD may be the law, but we're the Court of Appeals ;)
What I really want is a 1/24th scale F4U - without doubt one of the meanest looking WW2 aircraft, and it would have to be finished as one flown by VMF-214 "Blacksheep". Can't find anyone who makes a kit though.
There is a 1:16 scale here
http://www.themodeller.com/Products/Vought-F4U-4-Corsair---1-16-Balsa-Model-Kit__GUI-1004.aspx
Sorry - just noticed it's balsa
do not hang it from the ceiling!
please go back over some of those seam lines with 400 grit sandpaper. mask the surrounding areas by panel line and sand.
also go to Hyperscale.com and find some masking sets for the canopy. theyre 8 bucks that will make you not cry later.
thats 1/48 right?
http://www.bnamodelworld.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=504_509_198_321&products_id=22689
1/18th Corsair prebuilt and not to expensive:
http://www.scale-model-central.com/catalog/item/8432813/9217765.htm
Here's another place that makes those canopy masks Star pointed out (since his is sold out... :D ):
http://www.ezmasks.com/aircraft.html (it accepts only checks or M.O.s but there is a list of shops they sell to as well)
and Ill just throw this out there that if anyone wants a model build just ask me.
it isnt cheap. Id say a typical 1/35 scale tank is going to cost around 350 to 400 but ya get what you pay for.
Nord's good.
Im better, a lot better 8)
Thx GDS - but I have NO IDEA what you mean with the sandpaper
Also - I don't do canopies. I know to you and other who get right into this and all professional like that it may be a cardinal sin - but it really is a very small, cheap hobby for me. I don't have all the kit and don't really plan to - it's too expensive and too time consuming.
You might have a little faint here - but I'm going to tell you something I haven't told anyone else ever - sometimes I leave little bits off because they are just too fiddly and end up with glue all over them and my big fat sausage-like fingers!
In short - I enjoy it - but I think if I was to go to the level of detail I think you speak of then I may well find it a chore.
I did look into a compressor and spray gun set - but I really can't go down that road - and besides, I look at the problem I have painting by hand and wonder how the hell some of those bits are painted by spray!
And besides - I don't know how you can expect me to take anything away from your posts except that damned avatar!
oh - and yes, it's 1:48 scale
By the way - I looked on that hyperscale website - and I'm flabbergasted at the level of detail these modellers go to. Creating "new" pieces because they aren't happy with the parts supplied, putting new parts in (an He-111 didn't have enough detail in the cockpit so he added controls!)
I've always liked the look of spray painted models - but I am way, way too novice to go down that road - and my hands are shaky and my eyes are not so good.
In short - all it did was make me feel bad
Some incredible looking models on there.
As a small example - these are pictures of a 1:78 Academy Ju-87 from the website with my pic following...
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Man - even my camera shots are terrible. In my defence, I am rushing so I can get to work
JD, you can also use a liquid masking film. You brush it on, let it dry, use an exacto to cut away the parts you want to paint the frame members, etc), then paint away. Afterwards you peel away the remaining bits over the still-clear 'glass' and voila! It's a bit more work than doing nothing but easier than cutting bits of masking tape. I'd give it a go on the Mossie and then you can decide if it's worth it to go back and do the Stuka and others.
http://www.aero-accessories.com/LMF/LMF-application.html
I just don't think I have the dexterity for this.
I mean, I LOVE the look of the Stuka - and if I was honest I'd love to do something like that - but he's probably got all the gear. I've got a selection (a decent selection) of brushes and a rubbish blade. My eyesight isn't great and my hands are a bit too shaky.
I'd love some links (if anyone has them) on a good site that mentions techniques - especially if they are for bruch painting as opposed to spray...but I doubt I could ever be anywhere near that good.
I especially love the dark lines where the model has the panel marks...how the hell do they do that?
its a combination of two techniques known as pre-shading and sludge washing.
pre-shading is done before any other paint is applied to the model:
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after a coat of paint:
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sludge washes are done after the model is painted, decaled and clear coated:
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you make a thin water base mixture and paint along the panel lines then let it dry and wipe away the excess.
Thanks. I guess the only options open to me would be sludge washing...it seems the pre-shading is definitely only for spray painting
Any ideas on where I can get tips for modelling? A decent website?
What aircraft if the grey one?
its a what if F-104 conversion I ran across.
the Hyperscale forums are pretty good for tips and questions.
Nice build !
GDS - I tried the Sludge Washing effect whilst some came off the majority did not.
Can someone explain what I may have done wrong here please? Did I not water it down enough? Did I not prep the model enough before?
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I don't mind the model being wasted if I've done it wrong. I'd like to get another Stuka anyway and I wasn't toally happy with the job I did on that anyway - and also I want to stay away from 1:72 scale (unless it's bombers - bombers are just too big at 1:48 for me to put anywhere).
you have the right idea though there are two things you didnt do.
the first one is that your supposed to put a clear coat of gloss on the model first.
that seals the decals onto the surface and lets the sludge wash run into the panel lines easier.
the second thing has to do with the type of paint you used. Im guessing you did that with
enamel paint. Im sorry, and Ill take the bullet on that. the wash is supposed to be done
with a water based paint so you can clean up the excess with a q-tip.
you could however just repaint the camo and see how that looks as youve pretty much got a
pre-shaded line now.
The decal had come off long before I tried this method - which I guess made you think I hadn't put an overcoat on.
I didn't use a gloss overcoat but I used a product called Klear - which is a floor polish - someone suggested Klear as a product to use....though said there were other things I could so. I covered the model with it before the black lines were put on - but I only put one coat on.
One thing about the gloss - does that not give the aircraft a gloss look? I mean all the paints I get are generally matt enamel - some silk and one or two gloss...but mostly matt.
As for the paint, the paint on the aircraft is enamel - but the black stuff I used was acrylic - which I think is water based, right? Should I use watercolour instead? Did I not water down the acrylic enough? Did I let it dry for too long? I just couldn't rub most of it off...
@ GDS - I've just ordered some Flory Models weathering solution :-)
JD...
I also have started to build and paint models after a very long hiatus (about 20+ years). A couple of things I would recommend to a fellow "mid-life modeller".
1) go buy a pair of reading glasses at your local drugstore, etc. That extra magnification makes a huge difference, and I have found that I can do detail work much easier.
2) I was also an "enamel paints only" guy, but I've definately seen the light with water-based acrylics. Vallejo and Privateer(?) are two good companies that make excellent products. I THINK vallejo even makes an "aircraft pack" for German and Allied WWII planes. YOu will probably notice a difference if you decide to switch. They are easy to use, easy to blend and can be watered down for washes, weathering, etc. I had to paint some 28mm minis for a game my daughter had to create for school, and I was fairly impressed with the results...considering the LAST time I painted 28mm figs was 30 years ago.
3) Like you, I was also intimidated by airbrushing and have avoided it. Two months ago, however, I picked up a Paasche gravity-fed beginners air brush for $50 US. I also needed an air supply tube and an adapter. I use the disposable cans of propellant. All in, it cost me $100. Early results are promising....might be something to look into. Airbrushing is actually EASIER than paint brushing, once you get the technique down.
4) Also like you, I realize I am never going to produce the kind of models at hyperscale, lynx, etc. However little things DO make a difference. Get a set of micro-files (about $10) so that you can get rid of the flash and little plastic tags (like the one on the end of your wingtip) that come when you twist a part of a sprue (better to cut them off, anyways).
I am far from a perfect modeller, and I am further hampered in that I like working in 1/72nd scale, so everything is small. Nevertheless, these few extra steps have made a HUGE impact on my final outcomes. I don't even keep my models...I usually give them to some of the boys in the neighborhood..but that calm, relaxed feeling you get from building models in the first place is magnified when you look at what you've done an can say "not bad".
Yours in plastic and pewter,
Jack Nastyface
Thanks Jack.
I have actually gone last week to get reading glasses. I noticed I was holding things far away to focus and when I moved them close they were blurred. I also noticed (more and more) I was doing the old trombome dance when trying to read things...so glasses are on order.
I used enamel paints because I thought that's all you used...it's what I used when I was a kid and when I got back into it - it was the only thing I knew. I will look into acrylics.
Going to an airbrush isn't really my hang up. I love the effect they give and I have some niggling little concerns that I may not be able to do it properly - however the biggest niggle is the wife. She sees my modelling as and expense for something that just clutters the house and I get the impression it's a hobby she does not want to feed. I'll maybe get one at Christmas.
I've invested in some wash solution for producing a weathered effect. Hopefully it gives my models that less "model" look and a little bit more realistic.
Can I ask - what do you use to "seal" your paints? Some people have mentioned a gloss. Someone else mentioned to me a floor "polish" called Klear - a liquid that gives a sheen. Also - what do you think of the "propellant" fed sprays? I heard they didn't give an even enough spread - and I guess it's quite costly.
Unfortunately my very intermittent modelling was not enough to keep my local modelling shop in business...which is a shame, because the guy held "workshops" for spraying and techniques. I never went to any and regret that now.
A lot depends on your own preferences. I only use acrylics because they blend easily, are water soluble, but waterproof when dry. They also dry very fast, so its a good idea to get a bottle of acrylic flow-enhancer, esecially for small detail parts that need to be 'worked'. You can thin with water, but that does tend to dilute the pigments somewhat.
Its a bit of an aquired taste, and does need a some of practice if you're used to enamels. I admit that I used it more for figure painting rather than models that have larger area's to cover.
You can also get acrylic ink to apply key-lines, add to paints to intensify the colours and use as glazes, but it all takes practice.
I found that once mastered, using acrylics is much more satisfying and gives a much better effect. They dry matt, although you can get metallic colours and a range of matt, semi-matt, and gloss varnishes.
In general, you do need to undercoat with white before applying colours such as red or yellow in order to obtain a good clear finish, or you will just get a mucky colour.
My advice is get a few basic colours and give 'em a try - there are lot of good manufacturers, and even the Games Workshop range aint bad. However, avoid ones that have a coarse pigment base, go for fine pigments to get a smoother finish.
Also, keep a pot of water handy and clean / moisten brushes frequently, especially when painting fine detail, or the bristles with harden and drag the paint rather than 'flow'it.
You can get brushes specifically made for acrylics, but they can be expensive. I used the Games Workshop brushes which are not at all bad and pretty cheap and have a good range of sizes, including 'blunt' ones for dry-brushing.
Experiment is the key.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on July 02, 2012, 03:40:23 PM
Can I ask - what do you use to "seal" your paints? Some people have mentioned a gloss. Someone else mentioned to me a floor "polish" called Klear - a liquid that gives a sheen. Also - what do you think of the "propellant" fed sprays? I heard they didn't give an even enough spread - and I guess it's quite costly.
I tend to use a sealer that "seems" appropriate for what I am creating. So if I want to create a "factory assembled" tank or airplane, I use a gloss or semi-gloss coat. If I am painting something "active duty" (like a tank, etc), then I use a clear matt spray. I am undecided yet about 28mm figures. Some folks seem to prefer satin (gloss) finish, others matt. I suppose I would TEND to finish sci-fi / fantasy minis with gloss, and historicals with a matt.
Quote
Unfortunately my very intermittent modelling was not enough to keep my local modelling shop in business...which is a shame, because the guy held "workshops" for spraying and techniques. I never went to any and regret that now.
Running a hobby shop has to be a fairly tough gig. I try to support the locals guys as much as possible (almost never buy anything over the internet) but like you I am an intermittent hobbyist. In the past five years, I've seen at LEAST as many shops in the greater Vancouver BC area go under. On such occasions, I tend to swoop in during the clearance / close-out sale days, and scoop up models for 1/2 price. Like you, I feel bad for not being a regular...but on the other hand they probably wouldn't stayed open with the $50 I spend a year on models while they have tens of thousands of dollars of train sets and RC airplanes and cars and wooden ship models sitting on their shelves. Admittedly I was never a model railroad guy...
the floquil line of finishing sprays is very very good.
actually their whole line of spray cans is excellent.
theres a lot more to paint then color. floquil paints are made for
smaller scale railroad stuff. they understand the lower scales so
their paint base/pigment is ground finer then everyone elses.
on the down side its a more fragile paint so it should be sealed
before weathering.
Final coats of Medium Sea Grey (underside) and Ocean Grey (top) are applied.
I've got the camo Dark Green (RAF) to put on and by that time I'll have my reading glasses so I can attempt the canopy and I should have my weather wash to apply - though I may not on this one - I'll see.
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Very nice. Somewhere, in a parallel universe somewhere, another version of me just decided to get up from the computer chair and go down to the hobby store.
Thanks Staggerwing.
First coat of Dark Green (RAF) added
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Looking good!
good stuff JD - is the camo pattern random or are you seeking inspiration from an off camera source?
It's the pattern provided with the model - or as close as I could get it.
shouldve looked at the previous pictures more closely! You mean the massive peice of paper under the plane with the paint pattern on? :)
;) that's the one :P
heh - you going to try the fancy shading between the panels and stuff?
mmm....not sure. I've ordered the weathering wash - so maybe.
I think I'll probably do it minimal - so put the wash on and wipe it all off except for the panel joins
Looking at this version, it seems my green is considerably darker. It also says Matt on the tine, but seems to look very "satin". Not too happy with the colour. I much prefer the green on the pic below (not my image)
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Notice the difference?
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dont stress the color difference. one model is professionally shot and your using a phone/camera without filters, lamps and other accessories
I did stress about the colour. I don't recall ever seeing an RAF aircraft with that colour green. I could be wrong - but I don't ever remember seeing one.
So I've changed it. I've tried two other greens I have - both of which aren't totally right either (they were the colours I used on my He-111).
What do you think works best?
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Personally I like the dark olive green on the let side of the tail. But any of them will look good on it IMHO.
RAF colors:
http://www.letletlet-warplanes.com/2008/05/16/british-ww2-colors/
When they were used:
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_uk.htm
another color list for modeling:
http://www.cybermodeler.com/color/bs381c_matrix.shtml
I like it too CommandTent, but I think it looks a little "Germanic"...
Thx for doing my research Staggerwing. Extra Dark Sea Green is on there as is Dark Green
The strange thing is, the tin I have is Dark Green - but looks like the Dark Sea Green on the palette examples.
I'll just keep that colour then.
Ta
Can I ask some questions please - for all you airbrush boys out there...
The wife isn't going to give in yet for an airbrush/compressor kit - so I'm thinking about buying it piecemeal...so getting an airbrush now and then getting a compressor later in the year.
So - questions -
1. If I bought this Gravity High Precision Dual Action Airbrush (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gravity-High-Precision-Action-Airbrush/dp/B003EJYY38/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top), would I be able to use it with tins of propellant until I got a compressor?
2. How do I clean them? I guess with white spirits for enamel and water(?) for acrylic?
3. How do you the top feeder bowl?
4. If it does work with tins of air, would the brush come with a connector to a tin, or do the tins come with adapters or would I have to buy something else to get it to work with a tin of air?
Ta
No need to go for a high-end airbrush.
Badger makes one for ~ USD50 that comes in a kit with canned air. I started that way, and the brush is good enough for you to get started.
Honestly, I haven't messed with my dual-action airbrush enough to really feel comfortable with it yet. The Badger is plenty as a starter.
As for a compressor, they are more reliable than canned air. To my knowledge any airbrush should work with either a compressor or air. It's just that compressors are preferred if you can afford them.
Cheers LB.
I didn't know that was a high end brush. I was just looking around and most that were cheaper than that had bad reviews. I'm not sure I would be any good with the Dual Action either.
I'll look at the Badger stuff.
Oh - and one of the reasons I liked that model is because it was top fed. I can imagine putting paint into the jars and taking it out would result in considerable wastage?
Ready for the decals
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I'm really unsure what to do about the canopy. I paint with brushes. I don't seem to have a steady enough hand to paint the canopy. At the same time, I haven't ever used masking tape and have no idea how I would be able to do that anyway...so I may well be stuck with leaving the canopy clear.
And for UGC - this is the kind of scale.
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The Mossie is a 1:48, the He-111 is 1:72 and the Spit is 1:72. I'm staying away from 1:72 fighters/fighter bombers and keeping to 1:48. Bombers at 1:72 whilst aren't quite as detailed as 1:48 take up plenty of room!
I do like the scale of the Mossie, JD. I've always had a penchant for stuff like that. On the up side, the detail levels are better on good kits, although it obviously means a lot more work - and finding somewhere to display them.
You're obviously getting a lot of enjoyment out of them, and that's the important thing. Well done mate :-)
Thanks jd.... On your model choices.... Is there some order as in your faves or ones you come across in the shop?
Yeah - the Mossie scale is a decent scale. I would like to do 1:48 on bombers for the detail, but they are just too big I think.
UGC - as with all hobbies, I'm getting better.
In terms of my build quaility the Mossie is by far the best, He-111 second and I've got a wee Me-109 that's 3rd. In terms of kit quality, I really like Tamiya and Hagegawa. The He-111 is a Hasegawa and the Mossie is Tamiya and both seemed to go together effortlessly. In terms of era - I prefer WWII. Although I've always loved tanks, I've never wanted to make a model tank for some reason. Same with modern fighters and helicopters...never really had an interest in doing them.
My next one is a B-17 - unfortunately I may have bought tthe wrong kit for this - I choose Academy...but we'll see. After that, I think I want to get a 1:72 B-29 and following that a 1:48 P-47 Thunderbolt Razorback and sometime in the future an A6 Zero.
Decals on
Next stage is cover with clear then use my weathering solution...that may screw it up...but I need to practice - and it's not like I've got alot of space fr models anyway - so if it ends up in the bin, it just makes room for others :-)
This is the first model EVER that I have put all required decals on...I always found them too fiddly and thought "what the hell...they're so small no-one will notice"...but every decal that should be on this IS on this
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Masking tape shouldn't be too difficult. I haven't used it on a canopy, but I suspect some tape and a razor hobby knife (x-acto) should suffice to trim it for your needs.
I eventually capitulated and bought an Eduardo canopy set for the mossie.
LB - or anyone else - any ideas on half decent airbrush/tins of air kits? I've managed to persuade the wife that I could buy the kit in two parts - airbrush and used with tinned air first and get a compressor later in the year - so I'm keen to get a decent brush that will work well with tinned air.
Ideas of what I'd need, have to look for (e.g. size of needle? Anything else?) would be greatly appreciated.
I don't know if I prefer bottom feed or top feed tbh - so I'm open to persuasion there. I do think I prefer the sound of internal mix and I guess I'm not overly fussed with dual action as I'm not sure how I'd get on with it having read about it.
I've just started using my dual action air-brush this year...here's what I have discovered:
1) I bought a bunch of cheap acrylic paints from a local art-supply store for practice. I didn't want to start on a model, so I figured I could benefit from some practice work, first. In retrospect, I think it was a good idea, as it gave me a good idea about "how much, how close, how fast, etc..."
2) I was supposed to buy some kind of acrylic paint dilution solution but I just mixed in a bit extra water. Worked fine for practicing, but I think I'd want to use some good stuff on models.
3) I have (and tend to prefer) a gravity fed airbrush. The "bottle fed" system seems kind of wasteful to me (you will inevitably wind up with lots of unused paint in the bottle and feeder tube) and I also figured I might want to do "mini" paint batches (for example...I creating a tiny batch (about 4 - 5 drops paint with 4 drops of water) that I used to weather the sides of a LAV model...probably couldn't do that so easily in a bottle feed model)
4) I got 1 nozzle and only 1 nozzle...works fine
5) although the purists will say I'm daft, for now I am using a disposable can of propellant. Works okay...but if I was doing the number of aircraft models you are doing I would probably start saving up for a compressor, only for costs sake.
6) FWIW...I know another guy who bought an old scuba dive tank off ebay for cheap; got it filled at a local scuba shop, and then bought the necessary adapters, etc. Works great...but it is a little bulky.
The ONLY problem I had when setting up my airbrush system occured when I tapped into the propellant can for the first time. I accidently had left the flow valve slightly open, so when I broke the seal I got a blast of compressed air in the face...which may not sound all that bad, but they put mustard oil in the propellant cans so kids don't sniff the propellant to get high, so I basically pepper-sprayed myself.
Quote from: Jack Nastyface on July 09, 2012, 05:59:43 PM
The ONLY problem I had when setting up my airbrush system occured when I tapped into the propellant can for the first time. I accidently had left the flow valve slightly open, so when I broke the seal I got a blast of compressed air in the face...which may not sound all that bad, but they put mustard oil in the propellant cans so kids don't sniff the propellant to get high, so I basically pepper-sprayed myself.
I wonder if it would work on Zombies... could be helpful in the 'things within reach when 10 zombies crash through your door' thread. Also, practically speaking, could an old gas BBQ grill tank be retrofitted for an airbrush? It'd be easier to lug around than a scuba tank :D.
Actually, here ya go: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44cuKCCzUwk&feature=fvwrel
Personally, I'd buy a compressor instead. Too much damn work to fix up those propane tanks.
Quote from: Jack Nastyface on July 09, 2012, 05:59:43 PM
...so I basically pepper-sprayed myself.
Is that why they call you Jack NastyFace?
Thanks. I think I'll go with a gravity feed, dual action, internal mix type. From what I read last night, they are the best combination and will save me buying another one when I wanted to move to dual action.
I quite like the look and price of this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-BD-130/dp/B00472D1ZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341908753&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-BD-130/dp/B00472D1ZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341908753&sr=8-1)
I'll get a tin of compressed air, some vajello(?) paint and cleaner and then start work on my B-17. I've got some "crappy" builds that I can practice on before hand.
As for the tins of air - if I buy the airbrush and hose separately, what do I need to connect the hose to the propellant? Does the propellant come with a adapter? If not - what exactly do I have to look for? Also, someone mentioned pressure drops from the tin of air because it gets cold as it dispenses it's air and said to sit it in a pot of luke warm water...do you do that? Or notice a difference in air feed? Do you use a particular make of tinned air or would any do?
Well - the Eduardo Cockpit Mask for the Mossie was - erm - used with mixed success.
Not blaming the mask at all - it was fiddly for me to put on and I had to "re-seat" bits several times to get what I think was the right place. Turns out it wasn't in some cases. Also, I had no idea how to actually do the front to get it to fit - in the end, it's certainly better than my hand painted attempt - but the report card would say "could do better".
Practice and patience are the key words I think.
Still - a first try.
As you can see from the transfers on the wings, some of my Klear got under them. They look a bit of a mess too. Pity. Anyway - I'll be looking to test my Dark Dirt weathering solution on this one - and try and get some practice with it. No idea how it's going to act with the decals though...we'll see. I may have to pull those transfers at the front off.
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Cockpit looks grand.... Shame about the decals though
Thx UCG - though I think you're being a little kind. But it's appreciated ;-)
I just need to use some patience next time...also, the hand paint thing is a bit of an issue...it just seems to build a ridge up at the tape where spraying (from what I've seen of other peoples work) doesn't...
But still...first try and I've got some coming for my B-17 - so another attempt. At £3 a pop they aren't cheap though!
every time I see this thread in the "unread threads" screen, I start humming "Mu-mu-mu-mu-mu-MY MO-SQUIT-O!" to the tune of "My Sharona"
Sorry the decals didn't turn out but everything else looks great.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on July 15, 2012, 09:17:59 AM
Thx UCG - though I think you're being a little kind. But it's appreciated ;-)
I just need to use some patience next time...also, the hand paint thing is a bit of an issue...it just seems to build a ridge up at the tape where spraying (from what I've seen of other peoples work) doesn't...
But still...first try and I've got some coming for my B-17 - so another attempt. At £3 a pop they aren't cheap though!
Not at all.... When you were discussing it earlier I couldn't figure out what was supposed to happen and how it would look.... Now I've seen it it looks great
Thanks very much.
I screwed up the front - couldn't work out what to do and ended up with the bits of mask in a bit of a state. Also I think the hand painting gives that ridge look. Thing is - I was scared to take them off after one coat because if enough paint wasn't on, the mask would be useless...so I gave it a second, perhaps thicker, coat...
We live and learn.
Moved on now to my B-17 - well, I might still try and weather it...
This is the finished article - before weathering - and I'm not sure I will be weathering it.
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