Starting a new thread so questions and answers are all in one easily findable place...
Question number 1:
Acrylic or enamel? When I was a kid building models. I always used Testor enamel paint, but I guess that is just because I didn't know any better and it was pretty easy to find. I already have some of the little Testor enamel bottles, but I'm not against starting over with acrylics if that is what the crowd thinks is best.
Thanks!
Quote from: Jarhead0331 on July 20, 2025, 10:58:45 AMStarting a new thread so questions and answers are all in one easily findable place...
Question number 1:
Acrylic or enamel? When I was a kid building models. I always used Testor enamel paint, but I guess that is just because I didn't know any better and it was pretty easy to find. I already have some of the little Testor enamel bottles, but I'm not against starting over with acrylics if that is what the crowd thinks is best.
Thanks!
I'm an acrylic fan only because as a kid I remember enamel been thick and gloopy
Overall I'm a a simple wash fan - never had a 'paint' on my desk just 100s of washes
They take care of all the shading and highlighting all by themselves
Acrylics. Far more plentiful than enamel and with a much broader colour range. They're non-toxic, far easier on your brushes, and are easier to strip if you decide you want a do-over. Only downside compared to enamels is they aren't as durable.
Question 2:
Any favored brand of acrylic paint?
Tamiya? Vallejo? Army Painter?
Quote from: Jarhead0331 on July 20, 2025, 11:38:23 AMQuestion 2:
Any favored brand of acrylic paint?
Tamiya? Vallejo? Army Painter?
Unless there was a colour I couldn't find I was strictly a citadel man
Im a big fan of the 3rd gen paints from AK Interactive. Avoid their quick gen speedpaints though. They're hard to work with. Vallejo woukd be my number 2, especially if you're looking for military colours. Their quality has slipped bit recently. Some kerfuffle about being taken over by a hedge fund or something.
I like the ArmyPainter speedpaints, but they aren't well-suited to painting large, flat surfaces. I hear good things about their new Fanatic range but supposedly they aren't beginner-friendly if you aren't familiar with undershading, layering, and highlighting.
I avoid Citadel paints myself. Too expensive and their bottle and lid design are pretty frustrating.
I've only used Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics. I like them both
Vallejo is great - plus there are several starter kits out there that get you all the key ones you need for certain models (fantasy, German armor, Russian etc)
I have a love/hate relationship with citadel, their paint pots are rage-inducing but they have a great range, a very good app that allows you to see the right paint for highlights and washes to achieve different effects and a great range of contrast (speed) and washes. I do like the ability to put steel ball bearing easily into the pots to use with the mixers/shakers to really stir the paint up.
I am not as familiar with AK interactive but at my hobby store there are a bunch of people who swear by them - I have some of their metallics and they seem OK
If I was starting out right now I would focus on some of the Vallejo kits (A modern navy link is below)
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/sets/air-war-en/us-navy-and-usmc-colors-from-70s-to-present-71155/
I went to one of my local shops today and walked out with a bunch of Tamiya acrylic bottles. They were onsale for only $2.25 each and since i bought more than twelve, the owner threw in a couple bottles for free too. I also went with Tamiya because the color names were simple and they were easy to match with the chart from my kit.
I was looking at the Vallejo selection and almost went with them too. Maybe I'll try them for the next build.
I checked out the Citadel lines too, but the names are all over the place and I didn't feel like guessing. They were also like $6-$7 a bottle too.
I got some more brushes and some puddy. I'm ready to go. Will probably start painting this week. Fingers crossed! :peace:
Quote from: Jarhead0331 on July 20, 2025, 04:43:18 PMI went to one of my local shops today and walked out with a bunch of Tamiya acrylic bottles. They were onsale for only $2.25 each and since i bought more than twelve, the owner threw in a couple bottles for free too. I also went with Tamiya because the color names were simple and they were easy to match with the chart from my kit.
I was looking at the Vallejo selection and almost went with them too. Maybe I'll try them for the next build.
I checked out the Citadel lines too, but the names are all over the place and I didn't feel like guessing. They were also like $6-$7 a bottle too.
I got some more brushes and some puddy. I'm ready to go. Will probably start painting this week. Fingers crossed! :peace:
Exciting times.
I maybe should have said - sorry it's late, though I think I mentioned it in another post somewhere - I use Tamiya and Vallejo with my airbrush. I do hand brush with them - but only small parts/figures mostly.
I'm sorry - but I think when you start hand painting with Tamiya, you'll quickly be on here asking about airbrushes :HideEyes:
Just sayin' - I can't imagine Tamiya having the viscosity required to hand brush a big model like that.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on July 21, 2025, 04:48:13 AMQuote from: Jarhead0331 on July 20, 2025, 04:43:18 PMI went to one of my local shops today and walked out with a bunch of Tamiya acrylic bottles. They were onsale for only $2.25 each and since i bought more than twelve, the owner threw in a couple bottles for free too. I also went with Tamiya because the color names were simple and they were easy to match with the chart from my kit.
I was looking at the Vallejo selection and almost went with them too. Maybe I'll try them for the next build.
I checked out the Citadel lines too, but the names are all over the place and I didn't feel like guessing. They were also like $6-$7 a bottle too.
I got some more brushes and some puddy. I'm ready to go. Will probably start painting this week. Fingers crossed! :peace:
Exciting times.
I maybe should have said - sorry it's late, though I think I mentioned it in another post somewhere - I use Tamiya and Vallejo with my airbrush. I do hand brush with them - but only small parts/figures mostly.
I'm sorry - but I think when you start hand painting with Tamiya, you'll quickly be on here asking about airbrushes :HideEyes:
Just sayin' - I can't imagine Tamiya having the viscosity required to hand brush a big model like that.
I appreciate that, but I'm not too concerned. I'm not expecting this model to look like something Michaelangelo painted. I'm more focused on the journey and using this build to see how best to approach various aspects of the hobby. A lot of learning through trial and error to see what works and what doesn't.
we all know it's only a matter of time before I get an airbrush though. If my experience turns out to be anything like what you say in your post, there is a good chance I'll have one before this model is even finished!
By the way...these are the kits I have my eye on:
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Airbrushes-Gravity-Airbrush-IWAIW120/dp/B01J4GTIUI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2OO4GWD7NU2F2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AYwR_cXoRMq5ErCa9etskJIFV2hMHfA1JwVVfTwhHbI5iDl9MlbR8fhuke2Q-gN2wi-cMbrI1n-vzsYLVbPp-g9xJ7tLkEbx3iARgEZxBQT7hRFW38EhY9w0xFPPn88t91SKi2Vo0bGqVB0Eou6O1YNsMyg-tleHKJEm_17mKx2YuSMoqcmO99GdSV43TAbwbDbgEb8VE-9uOkpggW_hOzcN9aGxjWyOiqsGWGl-bgSWrgJbPk4CTj7eHVNjL68C5A9c-1dgNLUfDHTyul4d2ZH-cmRp7HDFdttFZoLsH1o.o054qXC_B04V_UV97g3HFl_9pWjjuOJxINXDAQp7nHA&dib_tag=se&keywords=Iwata+neo&qid=1753101711&sprefix=iwata+neo%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-1 (https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Airbrushes-Gravity-Airbrush-IWAIW120/dp/B01J4GTIUI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2OO4GWD7NU2F2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AYwR_cXoRMq5ErCa9etskJIFV2hMHfA1JwVVfTwhHbI5iDl9MlbR8fhuke2Q-gN2wi-cMbrI1n-vzsYLVbPp-g9xJ7tLkEbx3iARgEZxBQT7hRFW38EhY9w0xFPPn88t91SKi2Vo0bGqVB0Eou6O1YNsMyg-tleHKJEm_17mKx2YuSMoqcmO99GdSV43TAbwbDbgEb8VE-9uOkpggW_hOzcN9aGxjWyOiqsGWGl-bgSWrgJbPk4CTj7eHVNjL68C5A9c-1dgNLUfDHTyul4d2ZH-cmRp7HDFdttFZoLsH1o.o054qXC_B04V_UV97g3HFl_9pWjjuOJxINXDAQp7nHA&dib_tag=se&keywords=Iwata+neo&qid=1753101711&sprefix=iwata+neo%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-1)
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-ABD-KIT-WBFP-16-20-Professional/dp/B00HEU9EUG/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=1XAW1XXSZUTSC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WvmLYVRXIzr-HSroEbGTxV2t0omSMYa1Z9iTNv0gBAybhJCJiOmvKzWXQpR_Zzq_En0OWKsm8rPVyMfOCPsiM9jIZ2SUlvFLp44WEA1LJwdDsJJyX7u8f1DTBYG3cEH_Qba3JZ8c4YG75IbDAlan-0AqJ2PEr1iTaB7IH1jc-5r3calL1Ur3YCswvBxcMc6UOSzq1R8LRI1CBXPbd1BVEIZxqaf3Zgd-duv0HzXUTcLs4n6M0pLpNfK9e_K605vIbJvqLc7KtB4aEF3kxQVb3DoyBUMzQBn5lDN8OQC2bVI.wfm3RNhfLEwMlMvbrX93FE0CI3oM_xB33tMAzcOcVwA&dib_tag=se&keywords=Master+airbrush&qid=1753101791&sprefix=master+airbrush%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-ABD-KIT-WBFP-16-20-Professional/dp/B00HEU9EUG/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=1XAW1XXSZUTSC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.WvmLYVRXIzr-HSroEbGTxV2t0omSMYa1Z9iTNv0gBAybhJCJiOmvKzWXQpR_Zzq_En0OWKsm8rPVyMfOCPsiM9jIZ2SUlvFLp44WEA1LJwdDsJJyX7u8f1DTBYG3cEH_Qba3JZ8c4YG75IbDAlan-0AqJ2PEr1iTaB7IH1jc-5r3calL1Ur3YCswvBxcMc6UOSzq1R8LRI1CBXPbd1BVEIZxqaf3Zgd-duv0HzXUTcLs4n6M0pLpNfK9e_K605vIbJvqLc7KtB4aEF3kxQVb3DoyBUMzQBn5lDN8OQC2bVI.wfm3RNhfLEwMlMvbrX93FE0CI3oM_xB33tMAzcOcVwA&dib_tag=se&keywords=Master+airbrush&qid=1753101791&sprefix=master+airbrush%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1)
Quote from: Jarhead0331 on July 21, 2025, 07:40:05 AMI appreciate that, but I'm not too concerned. I'm not expecting this model to look like something Michaelangelo painted. I'm more focused on the journey and using this build to see how best to approach various aspects of the hobby. A lot of learning through trial and error to see what works and what doesn't.
we all know it's only a matter of time before I get an airbrush though. If my experience turns out to be anything like what you say in your post, there is a good chance I'll have one before this model is even finished!
I felt pretty guilty about not mentioning I use Tamiya and Vallejo with my airbrush - that was all.
It's looking good. And I understand seeing all the little bits and pieces that don't quite go together being like "urgh"...but the models always look great just sitting there.
I'm just glad You're taking part in this great hobby. :notworthy:
You can't really go wrong with Iwata.
I have a Neo TRN1 which was my little workhorse - but something has gone wrong with it recently. It has a trigger (like a gun trigger) rather than a push down/pull back trigger. It was very easy to hold and paint and particularly to control airflow/paint distribution.
Because it's not working properly, though, I recently bought an Iwata Eclipse which is proving an excellent choice.
The airbrushes that come with the compressors are never "all that great"...however, they could be ok for learning. I kept the one that came with my compressor and sometimes I'll use it to spray primer when I use it (not often mind).
Anyway - however the paint goes with this, I'm looking forward to seeing it on your shelf or windowsill.
^The thing I like about the Master Airbrush kit is that it comes with three different brushes and a lot of paint. However, I hear that Iwata is generally better quality, even on the lower end of the beginner spectrum.
Will the tiny Neo compressor be sufficient? I've read some people complaining about the lower PSI. The Master Airbrush compressor seems more...you know..."compressory"?
I'm not sure tbh. What is the psi of the Neo compressor?
I don't honestly know...but I wouldn't think Iwata would sell a sub-standard compressor with their airbrush because if you don't get the results, it kind of looks bad on their airbrush and may push you to a competitor next time. If that wasn't an Iwata compressor, then maybe I'd be a bit concerned...again, I don't know what the PSI rating is.
I have a compressor with an air tank on it. I heard it helps with steady airflow - but I'm not sure on the legitimacy of that.
For info, I generally paint between 10-20psi
Quote from: JudgeDredd on July 21, 2025, 10:03:35 AMI'm not sure tbh. What is the psi of the Neo compressor?
I don't honestly know...but I wouldn't think Iwata would sell a sub-standard compressor with their airbrush because if you don't get the results, it kind of looks bad on their airbrush and may push you to a competitor next time. If that wasn't an Iwata compressor, then maybe I'd be a bit concerned...again, I don't know what the PSI rating is.
I have a compressor with an air tank on it. I heard it helps with steady airflow - but I'm not sure on the legitimacy of that.
For info, I generally paint between 10-20psi
I've heard it is advertised as 30psi, but is really 15psi.
I'd get a compressor with an adjustable psi gauge.
I ordered my setup from these guys. I went with the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity setup. It was probably overkill for what I do. I honestly could get by with a no-name brush with a 0.4mm needle as I mainly just basecoat with mine.
https://spraygunner.com/ (https://spraygunner.com/)
I did a lot of research from mini pages and went with the Iawata eclipse as my first airbrush
It's been a pretty good workhorse
I bought the tooty airbrush compressor from noname - unfortunately it doesn't seem available any more
The criteria I was looking for was small/fairly quiet/easy psi regulator/tank to hold air and this was recommended
Bought all the parts off Amazon
Quote from: Con on July 21, 2025, 11:11:07 AMI did a lot of research from mini pages and went with the Iawata eclipse as my first airbrush
It's been a pretty good workhorse
I bought the tooty airbrush compressor from noname - unfortunately it doesn't seem available any more
The criteria I was looking for was small/fairly quiet/easy psi regulator/tank to hold air and this was recommended
Bought all the parts off Amazon
I've only ever heard of iawata and recommended above all others
I also went with the tooty/nonsense compressor. Good enough for the price. I had to replace hoses once due to cracking and even though I t-taped everything, mine doesn't hold pressure completely (or the pressure sending element is twitchy) so it sometimes fires up briefly but first tune st full power. It reminds me of an old, cranky dog barely lifting its head off tge carpet to half-heartedly bark before going back to sleep.
Anyway, learning the ropes of the airbrush is a hurdle, but it can be fun. Figuring out what psi works with what paints, how to thin to the right consistency, how to clear blockages, how to quickly clean up/cover-up spider-webbing, how to mask, how to clean up/hide overspray and under-running from flaws in your masking, etc. All stuff to look forward to.
I started out with Tamiya paints. If you're painting scale models, dioramas, and display pieces, they're great. The pots are designed so that there's an air gap in each one. That gap is just enough to fill one pot lid's worth of thinner. Adding that thinner to a full paint pot will give you the right consistency for airbrushing in temperate environments.
I stopped using Tamiya because it has a slightly sticky texture when fully dried which isn't conducive to minis gaming. It feels a little gross to handle and bits of terrain can stick to the models as you move them around the board. Also, Tamiya's colour range is a bit limited. Thry for publish great guides with mixing ratios to get the colour you want, but I never manage to get it quite the same each time and when you're batch painting an army, it can look a little off if half the unit's uniforms or tanks are a different hue than the other half's. That's when weathering comes in it play.
Quote from: Jarhead0331 on July 21, 2025, 10:27:36 AMI've heard it is advertised as 30psi, but is really 15psi.
I don't know what anyone else thinks - but 30 seems quite high. There's no way (that I know of) to limit the air coming through the airbrush. You can limit the paint flow, depending on how far you pull the trigger back, but afaik (and certainly on my Iwata Eclipse) air is on or off (press down action).
I'd go with what SDR suggested - a compressor with variable PSI.
I think one of these setups is a great place to start. Adjustable PSI on the compressor and your choice of airbrush.
https://spraygunner.com/collections/no-name-airbrush-sets/products/no-name-tooty-air-compressor-with-starter-airbrush-set (https://spraygunner.com/collections/no-name-airbrush-sets/products/no-name-tooty-air-compressor-with-starter-airbrush-set)
Quote from: Silent Disapproval Robot on July 21, 2025, 04:19:10 PMI think one of these setups is a great place to start. Adjustable PSI on the compressor and your choice of airbrush.
https://spraygunner.com/collections/no-name-airbrush-sets/products/no-name-tooty-air-compressor-with-starter-airbrush-set (https://spraygunner.com/collections/no-name-airbrush-sets/products/no-name-tooty-air-compressor-with-starter-airbrush-set)
Thanks! Any recommendations on the airbrush?
Anything with a dual-action trigger. Iwata, Harder & Steenbeck, or Badger are all mainstays so it's easier to get parts and accessories for them. 0.4mm needle is good for priming, basecoating, zenithal highlighting, and varnishing. 0.2mm if you want to do panel-lining, figure painting, or detail work.
From the ones listed, I'd probably go with the Eclipse myself.
I have a 0.2mm brush but I just don't possess steady enough hands to reliably do detail work. I've tried but I usually end up spending more time with a brush touching up overspray than I would've spent just doing it via brush in the first place. Works great for adding shadows and panel lines though.
I mentioned before I just recently bought an Iwata Eclipse and it is excellent. Everything I read/watched online had people saying it was their work horse.
I also mentioned I got a Neo TRN1. I bought that because my first brush (a Harder Steenbeck) I couldn't get used to the dual action (push down for air and pull back for paint). The TRN1 has a trigger like a gun and it is very easy to control air and paint.
It was a bit harder to strip down and clean fully - but you should rarely have to do that. Often a small clean is all you need to do. Strip downs aren't required very often.
You can also buy a 0.5mm needle kit to change your needle. So it's a 0.35mm needle that comes with it which is an all rounder. Too big for super fine work but fine for pre-shading and the like. Then if you buy the needle kit, that changes it to 0.5mm - allowing for bigger spray and coverage (like doing a HUGE ship perhaps). I did buy the 0.5mm needle kit hoping it would help me with primer (which always seemed to clog my brush - again, a me problem, not a brush problem...0.35mm is fine for priming) - which it did not. But importantly - it's an option if you wanted it. I would rather just buy another brush nowadays than a needle changing kit tbh.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Iwata-Gravity-Pistol-Trigger-Airbrush/dp/B00HJ777W6/ref=asc_df_B00HJ777W6?mcid=5bf1ce9ef6223af0a8cc123e42c41cb0&th=1&psc=1&hvocijid=8636867589473695484-B00HJ777W6-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8636867589473695484&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9212143&hvtargid=pla-2281435176658&psc=1&gad_source=1
Got some new washes today
(https://i.imgur.com/aZJkdfw.jpeg)
It's amazing what difference a day can make. I know it wasn't what you guys recommended, but at this price, I couldn't walk away. For a first airbrush, I'm hoping it's not bad. Either way, Hobby Lobby rules! All model kits and airbrush supplies were 40% off too...
(https://i.ibb.co/yFMwhWXJ/20250723-173345.jpg)
I'm probably going to outgrow this thing pretty fast. The compressor is tiny. It has two modes...low and high. Low power is about 4psi while high is about 15psi. The airbrush itself appears to have a nozzle for medium detail. I think it will be a great unit to learn on, but I sense a bigger compressor and more advanced brush in my not so distant future.
Wait till you have to break it down to deal with a massive clog! Then you will really be contemplating lifes choices
Quote from: Con on July 23, 2025, 09:43:37 PMWait till you have to break it down to deal with a massive clog! Then you will really be contemplating lifes choices
Don't listen to the naysayers JH - you get cracking and enjoy all the good (and the bad) that airbrushing will bring.
In the end, the results will speak for themselves.
A couple of 1/72 kits to practice on. Cheap, quick to knock up and practice spraying with no real waste of time invested.
Also it's an Iwata Neo - it's not a bad brush.
Stupid question: Can I use a full-size compressor like this for airbrushing?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UHNM1R0?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1
I don't know - sorry. I guess it depends on two main things - connection type and psi range.
Question no. 3 (broken down into several sub parts)
Do acrylic paints, whether for brush or airbrush, need to be thinned before application? Specifically, Tamiya or Vallejo. If so, do you use just water or some kind of solution? What is the best consistency and what are some techniques to get there?
Thanks.
Thin for airbrushing. Don't thin for hand painting.
People say it should be the consistency of milk.
I put some paint in a plastic shot glass then add a few drops of Ultimate Models Thinner or Tamiya's own thinner (regardless whether its Vallejo or Tamiya paint). I then mix together with a piece of sprue or wooden cocktail stick and just drag it up the side of the plastic shot glass to see what the consistency is like.
AFAIK you can't use water. I think it's some sort of rubbing alcohol i use to thin.
When you're ready with your mix, put a bit in your airbrush and spray onto something other than your model to check what it comes out like. If it doesn't "spider", you're good to go. It it does, you need more paint and if nothing comes out, it's too thick and needs more thinner.
Airbrush Flow Improver is a literal godsend
You only need a drop or two mixed into your paint
Agree with the plastic shot glasses I got a bunch of disposable plastic pipettes to use both as stirrers and to transfer
Use the psi regulator to adjust based on paint consistency and flow
Primers are thicker and don't need thinning - use right out of the bottle
Ooooo now you're into the realm of the pros and cons of the wet pallete too
Never thinned my paints but big Duncan always says 'two thin coats'
Tamiya pots are premeasured for thinning. Simply unsure the top and fill the air gap with thinner, mix it well and you should be good to go.
The Air Coloyr range ftom Vallejo is already thinned for airbrushing. Other ranges need to be thinned. Use airbrush thinner or, in a pinch airbrush flow improver.
Best thing yo do is get a sheet of plastic and practice with your psi settings an mixing ratios until you can pit down paint without it splattering or bring excessively runny and spiderwebbing from the air.
Have a quick YT search. There are a lot of how to guides that explain how to get a good mix.
Quote from: Con on July 25, 2025, 08:49:01 AMPrimers are thicker and don't need thinning - use right out of the bottle
I've heard that but if I don't thin my primer, it clogs my brush. I always put a small amount of thinner in there.
Less than I would for paint but I still do add some
Is flow improver used as well as thinners,