Well - I discovered this in the back of my cupboard and remembered I didn't ever fire it up...shortly after picking this up. Band of Heroes turned up (which I do love but is pretty complex for my wee heed) and I gave that my immediate attention. Then with the changing around of my man cave, at some point my models and board games found themselves removed!
Anyway - I found it and I love the look of it - so I'm going to do an AAR because I often find that is the best way for me to get to grips with the ruleset and also some of you clever buggers out there can correct me - stopping me getting mistakes lodged in my head.
This will be a relatively slow affair - but I'll try and not make it painfully so.
The manual
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1160.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq499%2Fwmar1967%2FBoard%2520Games%2FWorld%2520at%2520War%2FBlood%2520and%2520Bridges%2FPA271110_zpse2757c4c.jpg&hash=b0cd9333423923f8498e784e9717b1a3719bc5b5)
Player Aid Card Numero Uno
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Player Aid Card Numero Dos (TEC)
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1160.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq499%2Fwmar1967%2FBoard%2520Games%2FWorld%2520at%2520War%2FBlood%2520and%2520Bridges%2FPA271108_zps4a260765.jpg&hash=f01d52f1103e5e2f24420c8cad7107411dce0211)
This is a selection of the units and chits available in the game. There weren't many to be honest, but as I've found with computer games and some of my other boardgames - I prefer less units
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1160.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq499%2Fwmar1967%2FBoard%2520Games%2FWorld%2520at%2520War%2FBlood%2520and%2520Bridges%2FPA271105_zps0344229e.jpg&hash=c35e0a51687552fd0c460e72bf122202ac9fb98c)
And the beautiful board ( I LOVE the look!)
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1160.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq499%2Fwmar1967%2FBoard%2520Games%2FWorld%2520at%2520War%2FBlood%2520and%2520Bridges%2FPA271104_zps8979dfa0.jpg&hash=56f8175f4bbeb37326e5d3df0cf3e5572507171b)
I'll give you a break down of the numbers on the chits tonight (if I can kick my daughter off WoW!)
When I do post images, you'll have to forgive the flash on the counters/maps. Unfortunately my Olympus SP-610UZ doesn't take great pictures in bad light and so I need to use the flash. I'll try and minimise it as best I can
whoa this looks good!
It is a fine looking game. It seems somewhat limited in map and counter content, but there's a list of 12(?) scenarios in the back of the rule book - I haven't checked to see if there are others available or even addons - as I said, I forgot I had this as my wife moved it out of sight
LnL's Line of Fire magazine has lots of add on scenarios. There is at least one expansion for Blood and Bridges and there's another one coming out this month in Line of Fire called Baltic Fury.
Quote from: Barthheart on October 28, 2013, 05:24:05 AM
LnL's Line of Fire magazine has lots of add on scenarios. There is at least one expansion for Blood and Bridges and there's another one coming out this month in Line of Fire called Baltic Fury.
;D
See - plenty of people on hand to correct me! ;D
Should be a fair number of Soviet and British units and a few West German and US units to bolster the forces from Eisenbach Gap and Death of First Panzer.
Hope you enjoy it!
Quote from: JudgeDredd on October 28, 2013, 05:28:59 AM
Quote from: Barthheart on October 28, 2013, 05:24:05 AM
LnL's Line of Fire magazine has lots of add on scenarios. There is at least one expansion for Blood and Bridges and there's another one coming out this month in Line of Fire called Baltic Fury.
;D
See - plenty of people on hand to correct me! ;D
;D
Not correcting.... more like.... enlightening... 8)
Out of interest, anyone played this game (or the other versions)?
Quote from: JudgeDredd on October 28, 2013, 08:11:10 AM
Out of interest, anyone played this game (or the other versions)?
I'm just getting into the series. I'm starting with a copy of America Conquered. Played 2 scenarios so far.
Also just got a copy of the new Eisenbach Gap Deluxe which includes Death of the 1st Panzer.
I have played a bunch of the sister series Nations at War - WWII version of the system.
Me and Mad Russian gave Eisenbach Gap a go one Saturday. I thought that it was ok, he didn't care for it though I don't think. That Blood and Bridges looks pretty good though, I'd be curious to give that one a play so will follow your AAR closely.
I've played a bunch of EG and Do1P. I own Blood & Bridges but haven't played any of it yet.
I enjoy the series, but there are a few admin quirks I'm not hugely fond of, like the distinctions of moving-while-firing / stabilized guns. (Don't have time to go into detail right now, maybe later)
Cap'n Darwin was the main designer behind one of the other games in the series and can tell you all about it.
I own and have played B&B as well as other games in the WaW series. I find them a lot of fun, though I lose regularly :P
Thanks for this JD. Will follow your AAR with enthusiasm.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on October 28, 2013, 08:11:10 AM
Out of interest, anyone played this game (or the other versions)?
Aye - I have all but the latest 2 WaW games, and B&B is my favourite - not played all the scenario's yet, but I'm slowly working my way through 'em.
I'm glad you're doing an AAR on this game Judge as I meant to ask you about it in my thread. After you mentioned this game that was sitting in your cupboard I researched it and was intrigued.
I tried to minimize my lighting glare by using a photo editor that can autocorrect brightness/contrast. Actually I just manually adjusted/brightness contrast on my saved image file. Results weren't too bad.
Try putting a tissue over the flash to diffuse it. Should keep the glare down. Just make sure your flash doesn't get too hot.
Tried the tissue - unfortunately it made a big fat 0 difference. I guess it's quite a strong flash...even tried multiple layers to no effect.
I'll try the software thing
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1160.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fq499%2Fwmar1967%2FBoard%2520Games%2FWorld%2520at%2520War%2FBlood%2520and%2520Bridges%2FPA281113_zpsb9971367.jpg&hash=4669afbf9d62b3aabbc5c24ff55f80915a494756)
So - the chit numbers - what do they mean?
Full Strength/Reduced StrengthFull Strength units have a coloured band across the middle of their counter
Reduced Strength units have a white band across the middle of their counter
AP FirepowerRed Number
The number of D6 to roll when attacking hard targets
If underlined, can shoot on the move
HE FirepowerGold Number
The number of D6 to roll when attacking soft targets, thin skinned AFVs and helicopters
If underlined, can shoot on the move
AA FirepowerBlue Number
The number of D6 to roll when attacking air units
To HitThe number you need to roll, or higher, in order to hit your target
RangeNormal range of the weapon can be x2 on some occasions at the loss of effectiveness
If underlined the unit cannot increase range
ArmorNumber of D6 to roll to determine how many hits can be ignored
Save NumberRoll equal to or higher than this to cancel a hit
Movement FactorNumber of movement points available. If circled, can carry infantry
Assault FactorD6 to roll when assaulting
LeadershipRemove this number when rolling for a rally check
Command RangeUnits must be within this range to fight effectively
MoraleThis is a strange one - not really clear in the manual which says
Quote
Morale is the measure of a unit's psychological state, readiness and training. Units always use their HQ's morale value when required to make a morale check.
A unit is either in Good Order or Disrupted. Good Order units are ready to fight. Disrupted units are disrupted, attrited by enemy fireand - to use the much maligned Lock n Load phrase - just tired of the whole war game scene. Their ability to wage war is severely restricted.
Helicopters have no morale. They automatically recover from disruption when their formation is activated and they are never out of command
It then says
Quote
Example: All units in the Soviet 74th Guards Tank Regiment have a morale factor of 7. When the game calls for a morale check, roll 2d6; if the result is the formations morale, the unit passes the moral check
That doesn't seem right to me - rolling 2d6 and hoping for a single number seems like most of your units would end up disrupted and find it very difficult to become in good order again.
Can anyone clarify? Should that be roll the Morale number
OR higher/lower?
Morale checks pass when you roll less than or equal to the HQ morale.
Thanks - thought that should be the case...but it doesn't make that clear in the manual - at least not in the section when it mentions morale (as exactly what I quoted above is the section from the manual on Morale)
Quote from: Barthheart on October 28, 2013, 06:21:38 PM
Morale checks pass when you roll less than or equal to the HQ morale.
frontline morale determined by HQ?
all units adopt their HQs morale value as I read it
Quote from: JudgeDredd on October 28, 2013, 06:27:34 PM
Thanks - thought that should be the case...but it doesn't make that clear in the manual - at least not in the section when it mentions morale (as exactly what I quoted above is the section from the manual on Morale)
Yeah... there's a couple of words missing there.... keep an eye out for that in the rest of the manual...
Quote from: Windigo on October 28, 2013, 06:52:29 PM
Quote from: Barthheart on October 28, 2013, 06:21:38 PM
Morale checks pass when you roll less than or equal to the HQ morale.
frontline morale determined by HQ?
Yes entire formation's morale is noted on the HQ counter.
Quote from: Barthheart on October 28, 2013, 07:29:01 PM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on October 28, 2013, 06:27:34 PM
Thanks - thought that should be the case...but it doesn't make that clear in the manual - at least not in the section when it mentions morale (as exactly what I quoted above is the section from the manual on Morale)
Yeah... there's a couple of words missing there.... keep an eye out for that in the rest of the manual...
I think that is the kind of stuff that just drove me absolutely batty trying to learn the LnL system.
Dammit...ANOTHER series I've been curious about. You people are going to bankrupt me! ;D
Here is the rev2 FAQ for WaW. That might help on some of the rules. I think Mark is working on a new one here and there when he can.
The Cap'n FAQ's are indispensable to anyone who plays WaW / NaW - lot of clarifications in there.
Can someone PLEASE clarify this...I've read it, and re-read it almost a dozen times and I just don't get it.
Quote
3.1 Operations Phase
Players alternate pulling a marker from the opaque container (hereafter called a cup). It doesn't matter who pulls first, so please be civil. If an END TURN marker is pulled from the cup, place it aside. If a second END TURN marker is pulled from the cup (or there are no more formation markers in the cup), the OPERATIONS PHASE ENDS and the Marker Removal Phase begins
....
Now - I take that to mean you pull chits and when the second end turn marker is pulled, the operations phase ends - right?
Cool...so what's this
Quote
3.2.1 Hey! My Formation Didn't Activate
If a formation marker isn't pulled during the turn, it's owner keeps all but one END TURN marker in his possession when the Formation and END TURN markers are returned to the cup
...
I take that to mean all counters are returned to the cup EXCEPT one END TURN marker - is this correct?
It goes on
Quote
...
He returns any END TURN markers he posses to the cup on the following turn immediately after the Formation marker is first pulled from the cup
...
So - what's going on. First I'm told when the second end turn marker is pulled, the turn ends. I thought that seemed like a good mechanic in that perhaps not all formations would be activated - luck of the draw, right?
But with 3.2.1, it's suggesting that all the counters except an END TURN counter are returned and they continue play until the formation(s) which didn't activate are played.
First - that suggests that the second End Turn marker DOES NOT end the turn - unless it's pulled after all formations have been activated - and that doesn't make sense - why then have the end turn markers - why not just continue to pull the formations out the cup if 3.2.1 seems to suggest keeping going until your formations have been activated.
Second...by saying this
Quote
it's owner keeps all but one END TURN marker in his possession when the Formation and END TURN markers are returned to the cup
That just puts all the formations back in the cup and confuses the issue!
If ANYONE could clarify this bolloxs - I'd be ever so pleased.
Ta
*edit*
I meant to say - I have read Capn Darwin's WaW rules clarification and FAQ and it didn't help me with this particular rule (though there are LOADS of helpful hints in there)
JudgeDredd,
Ok, the turn can end one of two ways:
1. There are no more formation chits in the cup. Rare, but happens. Proceed to the Marker Removal phase.
2. During the course of the turn both End of Turn (EoT) markers are drawn. The turn does end now and you will head to the marker removal phase, but there is a special case if one or more of your or your opponent's formations did not activate at all (fails to activate) during the turn. In a case where one or more of your formations does not go in the turn, you hold out one EOT marker until ALL of those formations activate during the following turn. At the point all of them have acted you can toss the EoT in the cup.
This mechanic ensures that in the worst case a formation will act every other turn.
Does that help? Let me know.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on November 04, 2013, 04:38:33 PMI take that to mean all counters are returned to the cup EXCEPT one END TURN marker - is this correct?
That's what it's supposed to mean
Quote from: JudgeDredd on November 04, 2013, 04:38:33 PMSo - what's going on. First I'm told when the second end turn marker is pulled, the turn ends. I thought that seemed like a good mechanic in that perhaps not all formations would be activated - luck of the draw, right?
I'll let Cap'n Darwin weigh in here more, but the gist of it is that by keeping one End Turn marker in your posession, it ensures that you *can't* end the turn until certain formation chits are pulled to activate them. Only *after* activating them is the 2d end-turn marker returned to the cup, thus making it eligible to be drawn and therefore end the turn.
The intent is that one unit doesn't just sit idly by for 5 straight turns just b/c the chit didn't come up - especially since its possible to draw 2 end-turn chits as your first 2 chits, kill the turn with no one activating, and get 1 turn closer to victory in scenarios with tight turn limits.
d'oh! Ninja'ed by the Cap'n! (who's supposd to have a day job that doesn't give him this kind of web-surfing flexibility!)
Also ninja'ed
JD. After you pull the second end turn marker, the turn ends. If a formation has NOT activated, then you keep one EoT marker out of the cup and return the all other chits to the cup.
You now commence a new turn. Thus, it means that since one EoT marker was left out, the new turn cannot end before all formations have been activated.
Note that applies if one side had a formation that did not activate because of both EoT markers being pulled. If both sides had a formation that did not activate before the EoT markers were pulled, then you keep both markers out of the cup for the next turn.
Hope that helps.
Right - so by keeping the EoT marker out (or both if both players have a formation not used) the turn has ended and a new turn has begun BUT because you have kept the EoT marker, it doesn't go in until you have activated the formation(s) that did not activate.
So it is a new turn? I think I've got why it's happening now - thanks.
So...Britain has 2 formations and the WP has 3
The chits get pulled thus
EoT
British 1
British 2
WP 1
EoT
In this scenario, all chits are returned to the cup except the WP...and the next turn goes like so
British 1
WP 1
EoT
WP 2
WP 3
And it's at this point the EoT marker is returned to the cup - and the turn continues until that EoT marker is pulled...so in the case above, if the next chit pulled is the EoT marker, then the British does not get to activate British 2 - or does it continue round again (because the British 2 was not activated that second turn)?
Bear in mind that retained EoT markers are only returned to the cup at the beginning of a new turn, and not part way though an existing turn.
Quote from: bob48 on November 04, 2013, 05:18:52 PM
Bear in mind that retained EoT markers are only returned to the cup at the beginning of a new turn, and not part way though an existing turn.
Sorry Bob, but as soon as all your formations that did not activate last turn have activated this turn, you then return your end turn counter to the cup. The whole idea is that a formation never gets screwed 2 turns in a row but a different formation could still get screwed.
So chits pulled:
Turn 1:
Brit1
WP1
EOT
Brit2
WP2
EOT
Turn 2 - WP keeps one EOT, everything else into cup
WP1
WP2
Brit1
EOT
WP3 - WP now puts his EOT into cup
EOT
Turn 3 - Brit keeps EOT this time
Brit 2 - Brit puts his EOT into cup
WP1
EOT
WP2
EOT
Turn 4 - both players now keep an EOT each
Brit2
WP3 - WP puts his EOT in cup
Brit 1 - Brit puts his EOT in Cup
Brit2
WP1
WP2
EOT
EOT
Thanks people.
Get it now. So any turn when a unit is not activated, although a new turn starts, those players who had non-activated formations keep an EoT chit when pulled.
I think if he had explained the reason behind it, it would've made more sense
Quote from: Barthheart on November 04, 2013, 07:23:00 PM
Quote from: bob48 on November 04, 2013, 05:18:52 PM
Bear in mind that retained EoT markers are only returned to the cup at the beginning of a new turn, and not part way though an existing turn.
Sorry Bob, but as soon as all your formations that did not activate last turn have activated this turn, you then return your end turn counter to the cup. The whole idea is that a formation never gets screwed 2 turns in a row but a different formation could still get screwed.
So chits pulled:
Turn 1:
Brit1
WP1
EOT
Brit2
WP2
EOT
Turn 2 - WP keeps one EOT, everything else into cup
WP1
WP2
Brit1
EOT
WP3 - WP now puts his EOT into cup
EOT
Turn 3 - Brit keeps EOT this time
Brit 2 - Brit puts his EOT into cup
WP1
EOT
WP2
EOT
Turn 4 - both players now keep an EOT each
Brit2
WP3 - WP puts his EOT in cup
Brit 1 - Brit puts his EOT in Cup
Brit2
WP1
WP2
EOT
EOT
:-[
O
:-[
H
:-[
S
:-[
H
:-[
:-[
T
:-[
I'm putting this on hold for the moment.....really sorry guys, but I made the mistake last night of reading some of the rules for my new RAF:Battle of Britain game - and the simplicity of them seems to blow these out the water. I mean - I woke up at 4am this morning and reached for the manual for the solitaire Axis game RAF:Eagle.
I will get back to this - I really do want to - but the RAF game is shouting out to me.
I go back and forth too, I always have. I remember as a teen, I'd set up a game of "XYZ" and then I'd sit there ready to begin turn 1 (solitaire) and I'd think "man, I don't want to play this now!". Half the fun was just setting the game up. Advantage computer games; it's "easier" to be indecisive by having the computer do all of the leg work of setting up a game. Disadvantage computer games; at least you "accomplished" something by just setting up a boardgame. :)
Quote from: GJK on November 17, 2013, 07:54:49 AM
... I remember as a teen, I'd set up a game of "XYZ" and then I'd sit there ready to begin turn 1 (solitaire) and I'd think "man, I don't want to play this now!".....
This is exactly why my winter project this year is a very large gaming table with an inset inner table that can be covered with a top surface so that 2 or more games can be setup at the same time and I can play "what my moods is" at any particular time without all the restart set ups.
I'll try to take pics as I builds the table.
Quote from: Barthheart on November 17, 2013, 05:05:02 PM
Quote from: GJK on November 17, 2013, 07:54:49 AM
... I remember as a teen, I'd set up a game of "XYZ" and then I'd sit there ready to begin turn 1 (solitaire) and I'd think "man, I don't want to play this now!".....
This is exactly why my winter project this year is a very large gaming table with an inset inner table that can be covered with a top surface so that 2 or more games can be setup at the same time and I can play "what my moods is" at any particular time without all the restart set ups.
I'd like to see how it turns out.
QuoteI'll try to take pics as I builds the table.
LOL
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpopeye.com%2Ffiles%2F2013%2F09%2FPopeye-239x300.jpg&hash=ee5a65feed5a829876101123236f981106f8a154)
I.definitely wan to play this game...I've just been spoiled by RAF at the moment
My upstairs gaming table - the one that has the table top that can be removed to expose a 3" "well" where I can safely store a game has had Carrier set up on it for several months. I checked on it just last night. Alas, another one that I want to get back in to!
I got my copy of the game last thursday. At some parts the rules are a bit confusingly written but luckily The Untold Stories ruleset has clarified a few of those things. I'm not sure if I completely agree with all of the game design solutions, especially HQ units that can't move independently feel a bit odd. But I think I need to start playing it instead of staring at the rulebook, I'm sure there are lots on thrilling and entertaining moments ahead!
Yep - there are some great scenario's in BnB, hope you enjoy it.
Really sorry about getting side tracked by another board game (first it was Band of Heroes and lately it was RAF Battle of Britain!).
It is actually sitting out at the moment, on top of my unfinished Challenger II model...so I promise I will make this my next project! Within the next 2 months (actually I'll have to try and make it before February - because rugby starts on 1st February)...better get a move on.
As someone mentioned, the rules are a bit confusing in places - though I think clearer than BoH...but it kind of blocks me.
I will endeavour to start an AAR this week.
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
And second - the scenario objective is to remove as many units from the board as possible...for both sides...even I don't think I'm an impartial enough solitaire player to pull off that game and make it interesting. My instinct, for both sides, would be to keep them out of range and in cover and head for the exit - after all - that is the objective. I don't know how I'm going to pull it off - honestly.
I'll give it a go - it might turn out ok depending on where the opposing sides setup. I do wish there were two different objectives though.
Anyway - just a heads up I'm setting up the board with the plan to start it before the weekend.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 05:40:23 PM
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
An old British/Euro man-portable SAM, IIRC.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 05:40:23 PM
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
And second - the scenario objective is to remove as many units from the board as possible...for both sides...even I don't think I'm an impartial enough solitaire player to pull off that game and make it interesting. My instinct, for both sides, would be to keep them out of range and in cover and head for the exit - after all - that is the objective. I don't know how I'm going to pull it off - honestly.
I'll give it a go - it might turn out ok depending on where the opposing sides setup. I do wish there were two different objectives though.
Anyway - just a heads up I'm setting up the board with the plan to start it before the weekend.
Check on the reverse side of some of the weapons counters - I think its the reverse side of the Milan. Most of them have different weapons on either sides. My copy is buried somewhere so cant get at it to check atm.
thanks Bob...that's exactly where it was :D
BoB is more than just a pretty pan target
I have nice legs as well.
Quote from: Nefaro on January 22, 2014, 05:42:35 PM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 05:40:23 PM
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
An old British/Euro man-portable SAM, IIRC.
Sorry Nefaro...by WTH I meant Where The Hell...not What The Hell ;) (Though I didn't know what it was anyway - never heard of it)
Quote from: Nefaro on January 22, 2014, 05:42:35 PM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 05:40:23 PM
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
An old British/Euro man-portable SAM, IIRC.
Redeye was a US manpad. Precusor to the Stinger I think. We must have provided them to the West Germans.
Yep. The Redeye was replaced by the Redeye II which became the Stinger.
Quote from: mirth on January 22, 2014, 06:37:08 PM
Quote from: Nefaro on January 22, 2014, 05:42:35 PM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 05:40:23 PM
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
An old British/Euro man-portable SAM, IIRC.
Redeye was a US manpad. Precusor to the Stinger I think. We must have provided them to the West Germans.
Pretty sure the Brits had lots of 'em too. I had just assumed it was another one of the group efforts from some of the NATO nations. Doah!
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 06:32:00 PM
Quote from: Nefaro on January 22, 2014, 05:42:35 PM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 05:40:23 PM
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
An old British/Euro man-portable SAM, IIRC.
Sorry Nefaro...by WTH I meant Where The Hell...not What The Hell ;) (Though I didn't know what it was anyway - never heard of it)
The support weapons are double-sided. Usually, one side will be an AD unit, the other an anti-tank. The Redeye is on the reverse side of the same chit with the Milan.
http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/450381/redeye-unit (http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/450381/redeye-unit)
Quote from: Nefaro on January 22, 2014, 06:41:08 PM
Quote from: mirth on January 22, 2014, 06:37:08 PM
Quote from: Nefaro on January 22, 2014, 05:42:35 PM
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 22, 2014, 05:40:23 PM
I have to be honest - I'm slightly confused starting Scenario 1 of this game.
First off - the West Germans get 1xRedeye - WTH is a Redeye? I can't find it anywhere in my chits
An old British/Euro man-portable SAM, IIRC.
Redeye was a US manpad. Precusor to the Stinger I think. We must have provided them to the West Germans.
Pretty sure the Brits had lots of 'em too. I had just assumed it was another one of the group efforts from some of the NATO nations. Doah!
Yeah, I'm sure we distributed them liberally to our allies.
Brits had Blowpipe too. Their own design.
Made by General Dynamics IIRC. As far as I know, only the SAS were equipped with a very limited quantity of the missile during the Falklands War, and I think one was used to bring down a Pucara.
Sorry. Didn't mean to hijack your AAR, JD. WaW is a great system. Just played a BnB scenario last night.
And if you like WaW, then NaW is even gooder ;D
Quote from: bob48 on January 22, 2014, 06:50:47 PM
And if you like WaW, then NaW is even gooder ;D
Heh. I was just in the basement trying to introduce some kind of organization to my boardgame shelves and ended up taking out my copy of WaW and looking it over. I have the pieces all punched but have only ever played on Vassal. One of these days I'll have to break it out to try with my regular gaming opponent.
Edit: Doh! I meant Nations at War. Gaming WW3 has never grabbed my interest for some reason.
Admins - there's 5 pages of not a lot here (because I dragged my feet - sorry)....can you lock this thread and I'll start a clean one when I've written it please
just ignore it and it'll fall down on the page. Start your new one whenever you're ready :)
Thanks - I didn't want to just create another one...look like some sort of mature spammer! ;)
seriously? we've got like 239045723904571023498 different threads with boobs floating around here. I think we can absorb a second W@W AAR folder ;D
Quote from: bayonetbrant on January 23, 2014, 03:53:34 PM
seriously? we've got like 239045723904571023498 different threads with boobs floating around here. I think we can absorb a second W@W AAR folder ;D
really???
somehow I missed 274 of those threads
Why don't you put the new AAR down in the Boardgame AAR forum.... where other ... you know... boardgame AAR's are located.... ;)
wow...didn't even know that was there (or forgot - they're both one and the same for me nowadays)
Thanks - and I will do :-)
we will follow..... 8)
Rules are doing my nut in!
After reading the Battle of Britain rules, I find these a mess.
Here's my new confusion...
The manual states in section 3.0 Outline of Play like this
3.1 Operations Phase (pulling a chit from the cup to activate a formation
3.2 Marker Removal Phase
Question - why the hell is the marker removal phase within/after the operations phase? The way that's laid out is suggests you remove all markers from the board each time you activate a unit - which just can't be right!
The manual really needs an outline of play - and in the proper fashion, not piecemeal - and a tutorial scenario
Mark Walker is pretty awful at making manuals. There are times when a buddy buddy approach is good, but not when precision is needed. It's a good thing that he makes good games!
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 25, 2014, 03:47:37 PM
Rules are doing my nut in!
After reading the Battle of Britain rules, I find these a mess.
Here's my new confusion...
The manual states in section 3.0 Outline of Play like this
3.1 Operations Phase (pulling a chit from the cup to activate a formation
3.2 Marker Removal Phase
Question - why the hell is the marker removal phase within/after the operations phase? The way that's laid out is suggests you remove all markers from the board each time you activate a unit - which just can't be right!
The manual really needs an outline of play - and in the proper fashion, not piecemeal - and a tutorial scenario
Yeah, they're a mess. I'm a noob to the game also but the way I've understood this is that in the marker removal phase all the markers are removed from both sides but in the operation phase only the ones that are concerning the current actived formation. Of coure my interpretation can also be wrong?
Gents,
Once all formation chits have been pulled, or the turn ends due to both EoT markers being pulled, the marker removal phase is triggered signifying the end of a turn.
This will be basically all the Ops Complete markers and Out of Command markers (command status is checked again at the beginning of the next turn). Disrupted markers remain in place as disrupted units check for recovery once a formation is activated).
Hope this helps.
And in addition to Marker Removal phase Ops Complete and Out of Commad markers are removed in each Housekeeping phase from the activated formation?
Quote from: Tinkershuffle on January 26, 2014, 06:43:13 AM
And in addition to Marker Removal phase Ops Complete and Out of Commad markers are removed in each Housekeeping phase from the activated formation?
Yes. When a formation activates Ops Comp and OOC markers are removed from it's units before they take any actions.
Just to add to that. Remember that units of an un-activated formation may conduct opp-fire against a moving unit, after which they are marked with an ops complete marker. These will be removed when that formation then activates.
I guessed that was the case bob thanks - I was just pointing out the rules aren't laid out in that way...the rules suggest pulling a chit THEN all markers are removed.
The process of a turn of play, as laid out in the manual is not at all straight forward. Maybe I've been spoiled by other rule sets.
I agree, the rules don't always scan in a logical order and could do with being a bit more concise.
Quote from: JudgeDredd on January 26, 2014, 08:56:40 AM
I guessed that was the case bob thanks - I was just pointing out the rules aren't laid out in that way...the rules suggest pulling a chit THEN all markers are removed.
The process of a turn of play, as laid out in the manual is not at all straight forward. Maybe I've been spoiled by other rule sets.
The Marker Removal phase was only listed in the brief Turn Order Summary on my Eisenbach Gap Deluxe version's rules (thanks again Jack Nastyface!) just after the Activation Phase which had most of the turn's stuff lumped in on the summary. However, the next section was the full description of the full expanded turn order so it didn't give me any fuss when I noticed the earlier one was just a brief summary.
The odd part about the rules were some of the rules references located in the component description section near the front of the manual. Most notably the accompanying examples showing those rules in action, before you had even started learning anything about the game mechanics. I just didn't pay much attention to those early examples since I hadn't reached their accompanying rules yet. The rules weren't difficult after skipping those mechanics examples, which weren't really needed there.
The toughest time I've had was with
Labyrinth's rules. While the rulebook is quite small compared to nearly everything else I have, the game system is just so alien. It also feels like there are many different terms for effects, counters, actions, etc that I'm having to stop and actively try to commit to memory. As if the game has it's own separate dialect I must learn. ???
I was soloing B&B "Angels of Death" scenario and this was the outcome, a bloodpath for the Soviets trying to capture Rieden. Overwatching Apaches seemed to be a bit overkill.
(https://www.grogheads.com/forums/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs7.postimg.org%2Fjezpwxdje%2FWP_20140823_00_06_50_Pro.jpg&hash=87409bd0491124b3a623f0b8bae90e406e15d4d0)