My Mosquito

[GDS_Starfury]

its a combination of two techniques known as pre-shading and sludge washing.
pre-shading is done before any other paint is applied to the model:


after a coat of paint:


sludge washes are done after the model is painted, decaled and clear coated:

you make a thin water base mixture and paint along the panel lines then let it dry and wipe away the excess.

[JudgeDredd]

Thanks. I guess the only options open to me would be sludge washing...it seems the pre-shading is definitely only for spray painting

Any ideas on where I can get tips for modelling? A decent website?

[JudgeDredd]

What aircraft if the grey one?

[GDS_Starfury]

its a what if F-104 conversion I ran across.
the Hyperscale forums are pretty good for tips and questions.

[MIGMaster]

Nice build !

[JudgeDredd]

GDS - I tried the Sludge Washing effect whilst some came off the majority did not.

Can someone explain what I may have done wrong here please? Did I not water it down enough? Did I not prep the model enough before?



I don't mind the model being wasted if I've done it wrong. I'd like to get another Stuka anyway and I wasn't toally happy with the job I did on that anyway - and also I want to stay away from 1:72 scale (unless it's bombers - bombers are just too big at 1:48 for me to put anywhere).

[GDS_Starfury]

you have the right idea though there are two things you didnt do.
the first one is that your supposed to put a clear coat of gloss on the model first.
that seals the decals onto the surface and lets the sludge wash run into the panel lines easier.
the second thing has to do with the type of paint you used.  Im guessing you did that with
enamel paint.  Im sorry, and Ill take the bullet on that.  the wash is supposed to be done
with a water based paint so you can clean up the excess with a q-tip.
you could however just repaint the camo and see how that looks as youve pretty much got a
pre-shaded line now.

[JudgeDredd]

The decal had come off long before I tried this method - which I guess made you think I hadn't put an overcoat on.

I didn't use a gloss overcoat but I used a product called Klear - which is a floor polish - someone suggested Klear as a product to use....though said there were other things I could so. I covered the model with it before the black lines were put on - but I only put one coat on.

One thing about the gloss - does that not give the aircraft a gloss look? I mean all the paints I get are generally matt enamel - some silk and one or two gloss...but mostly matt.

As for the paint, the paint on the aircraft is enamel - but the black stuff I used was acrylic - which I think is water based, right? Should I use watercolour instead? Did I not water down the acrylic enough? Did I let it dry for too long? I just couldn't rub most of it off...

[JudgeDredd]

@ GDS - I've just ordered some Flory Models weathering solution :-)

[Jack Nastyface]

JD...
I also have started to build and paint models after a very long hiatus (about 20+ years).  A couple of things I would recommend to a fellow "mid-life modeller".
1)  go buy a pair of reading glasses at your local drugstore, etc.  That extra magnification makes a huge difference, and I have found that I can do detail work much easier.
2)  I was also an "enamel paints only" guy, but I've definately seen the light with water-based acrylics.  Vallejo and Privateer(?) are two good companies that make excellent products.  I THINK vallejo even makes an "aircraft pack" for German and Allied WWII planes.  YOu will probably notice a difference if you decide to switch.  They are easy to use, easy to blend and can be watered down for washes, weathering, etc.  I had to paint some 28mm minis for a game my daughter had to create for school, and I was fairly impressed with the results...considering the LAST time I painted 28mm figs was 30 years ago.
3)  Like you, I was also intimidated by airbrushing and have avoided it.   Two months ago, however, I picked up a Paasche gravity-fed beginners air brush for $50 US.  I also needed an air supply tube and an adapter.  I use the disposable cans of propellant.  All in, it cost me $100.  Early results are promising....might be something to look into.  Airbrushing is actually EASIER than paint brushing, once you get the technique down.
4)  Also like you, I realize I am never going to produce the kind of models at hyperscale, lynx, etc.  However little things DO make a difference.  Get a set of micro-files (about $10) so that you can get rid of the flash and little plastic tags (like the one on the end of your wingtip) that come when you twist a part of a sprue (better to cut them off, anyways).

I am far from a perfect modeller, and I am further hampered in that I like working in 1/72nd scale, so everything is small.  Nevertheless, these few extra steps have made a HUGE impact on my final outcomes.  I don't even keep my models...I usually give them to some of the boys in the neighborhood..but that calm, relaxed feeling you get from building models in the first place is magnified when you look at what you've done an can say "not bad".

Yours in plastic and pewter,

Jack Nastyface

[JudgeDredd]

Thanks Jack.

I have actually gone last week to get reading glasses. I noticed I was holding things far away to focus and when I moved them close they were blurred. I also noticed (more and more) I was doing the old trombome dance when trying to read things...so glasses are on order.

I used enamel paints because I thought that's all you used...it's what I used when I was a kid and when I got back into it - it was the only thing I knew. I will look into acrylics.

Going to an airbrush isn't really my hang up. I love the effect they give and I have some niggling little concerns that I may not be able to do it properly - however the biggest niggle is the wife. She sees my modelling as and expense for something that just clutters the house and I get the impression it's a hobby she does not want to feed. I'll maybe get one at Christmas.

I've invested in some wash solution for producing a weathered effect. Hopefully it gives my models that less "model" look and a little bit more realistic.

Can I ask - what do you use to "seal" your paints? Some people have mentioned a gloss. Someone else mentioned to me a floor "polish" called Klear - a liquid that gives a sheen. Also - what do you think of the "propellant" fed sprays? I heard they didn't give an even enough spread - and I guess it's quite costly.

Unfortunately my very intermittent modelling was not enough to keep my local modelling shop in business...which is a shame, because the guy held "workshops" for spraying and techniques. I never went to any and regret that now.

[bob48]

A lot depends on your own preferences. I only use acrylics because they blend easily, are water soluble, but waterproof when dry. They also dry very fast, so its a good idea to get a bottle of acrylic flow-enhancer, esecially for small detail parts that need to be 'worked'. You can thin with water, but that does tend to dilute the pigments somewhat.

Its a bit of an aquired taste, and does need a some of practice if you're used to enamels. I admit that I used it more for figure painting rather than models that have larger area's to cover.

You can also get acrylic ink to apply key-lines, add to paints to intensify the colours and use as glazes, but it all takes practice.
I found that once mastered, using acrylics is much more satisfying and gives a much better effect. They dry matt, although you can get metallic colours and a range of matt, semi-matt, and gloss varnishes.

In general, you do need to undercoat with white before applying colours such as red or yellow in order to obtain a good clear finish, or you will just get a mucky colour.

My advice is get a few basic colours and give 'em a try - there are lot of good manufacturers, and even the Games Workshop range aint bad. However, avoid ones that have a coarse pigment base, go for fine pigments to get a smoother finish.
Also, keep a pot of water handy and clean / moisten brushes frequently, especially when painting fine detail, or the bristles with harden and drag the paint rather than 'flow'it.

You can get brushes specifically made for acrylics, but they can be expensive. I used the Games Workshop brushes which are not at all bad and pretty cheap and have a good range of sizes, including 'blunt' ones for dry-brushing.

Experiment is the key.

[Jack Nastyface]

Can I ask - what do you use to "seal" your paints? Some people have mentioned a gloss. Someone else mentioned to me a floor "polish" called Klear - a liquid that gives a sheen. Also - what do you think of the "propellant" fed sprays? I heard they didn't give an even enough spread - and I guess it's quite costly.

I tend to use a sealer that "seems" appropriate for what I am creating.  So if I want to create a "factory assembled" tank or airplane, I use a gloss or semi-gloss coat.  If I am painting something "active duty" (like a tank, etc), then I use a clear matt spray.  I am undecided yet about 28mm figures.  Some folks seem to prefer satin (gloss) finish, others matt.  I suppose I would TEND to finish sci-fi / fantasy minis with gloss, and historicals with a matt.

Unfortunately my very intermittent modelling was not enough to keep my local modelling shop in business...which is a shame, because the guy held "workshops" for spraying and techniques. I never went to any and regret that now.

Running a hobby shop has to be a fairly tough gig.  I try to support the locals guys as much as possible (almost never buy anything over the internet) but like you I am an intermittent hobbyist.  In the past five years, I've seen at LEAST as many shops in the greater Vancouver BC area go under.  On such occasions, I tend to swoop in during the clearance / close-out sale days, and scoop up models for 1/2 price.  Like you, I feel bad for not being a regular...but on the other hand they probably wouldn't stayed open with the $50 I spend a year on models while they have tens of thousands of dollars of train sets and RC airplanes and cars and wooden ship models sitting on their shelves.  Admittedly I was never a model railroad guy...

[GDS_Starfury]

the floquil line of finishing sprays is very very good.
actually their whole line of spray cans is excellent.
theres a lot more to paint then color.  floquil paints are made for
smaller scale railroad stuff.  they understand the lower scales so
their paint base/pigment is ground finer then everyone elses. 
on the down side its a more fragile paint so it should be sealed
before weathering.

[JudgeDredd]

Final coats of Medium Sea Grey (underside) and Ocean Grey (top) are applied.

I've got the camo Dark Green (RAF) to put on and by that time I'll have my reading glasses so I can attempt the canopy and I should have my weather wash to apply - though I may not on this one - I'll see.